Just wondering where is a good place to order all the parts required? Also, as far as the amplifer, would a 2n3702 work, or is the 2n3704 required? Please let me know about a reliable place to order those from. Thanks for the tutorial!
eBay may be an okay source, but you always have the chance of getting a lemon...
We'll have to track down kefka or michaelthegreat, who are good sources on this kind of stuff.
Quote from: JC on September 09, 2006, 11:19:09 am
We'll have to track down kefka or michaelthegreat, who are good sources on this kind of stuff.
for my own mods, i use :
two 22ＫΩ resistor
One 2SC1815 transistor
1 0.47μF condensor
Hope this helps.
I've seen those listed as parts too at another site, is there any major difference between the 2 (2N3704 and 2SC1815)? On the site here it lists a 47µf cap, a 0.47µf is used with the 2SC1815? Thanks.
Quote from: silkd on September 10, 2006, 07:59:41 pm
I've seen those listed as parts too at another site, is there any major difference between the 2 (2N3704 and 2SC1815)? On the site here it lists a 47µf cap, a 0.47µf is used with the 2SC1815? Thanks.
The fact is that the code for transistor depends on region. US codes aren't the same as European one.
What i really can tell is that i only use 0.47µf condensor.
I hate to bump and old topic, but I figure it is better than creating a new one on the same general subject.
So, I built the AV board as outlined in Kefka's tutorial. I think that it looks pretty good.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v498/8-bitcultmember/Random/avboard.jpg)
But when I opened up my FAMICOM....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v498/8-bitcultmember/Random/mainboard.jpg)
The board was different than the one in the tutorial. ???
So, my question is. Has anyone done the AV mod on this board? Because I have no idea where to solder the mod. Though I find it interesting that there is a contact labled "VIDEO".
Quote from: super56k on September 19, 2006, 08:46:06 pm
I hate to bump and old topic
Actually I like when people bump old topics. :)
But yeah, that's why I don't try that stuff, lol.
Surely somebody has done the AV mod on more than just one type of FAMICOM.... If there where a board revision number or some other form of identification besides this photograph, that might make it easier.
Well I finally got around to trying the mod and I have used 2 different mods 1 using a 2N3704 and one using the C1815 listed in a different mod. In both cases I had to use a 47uf cap as the .47 cap just caused the screen to roll. In both cases I still had white lines going through the screen and the screen appeared very bright. Is there any way to eliminate the white lines and added brightness? As to the question of different famicom boards I only know of the 2 that have been discussed here, one with (Video) labeled and the one listed in the tutorial here. Anyways, if anyone has an answer to the brightness/white lines problem, let me know. Thanks.
Quote from: silkd on September 23, 2006, 06:25:12 pm
n both cases I had to use a 47uf cap as the .47 cap just caused the screen to roll. In both cases I still had white lines going through the screen and the screen appeared very bright. Is there any way to eliminate the white lines and added brightness?
What is the broadcasting standard of the television that you are trying to use? Is it NTSC or PAL?
Quote from: silkd on September 23, 2006, 06:25:12 pm
As to the question of different famicom boards I only know of the 2 that have been discussed here, one with (Video) labeled and the one listed in the tutorial here.
Do you have any links to mods involving the FAMICOM board with the "Video" contact?
I'm using a NTSC television. I noticed my famicom does not have any shielding on the underside of the rf board (bought it used years ago, no telling what they did to it) I am going to try to find something the shield it with....I'm wrap that mofo with foil if I have to :) j/k
As far as a link for the board with the video contact here you go:
http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html
It's in japanese, but should be easy enough to understand.
Quote from: silkd on September 23, 2006, 07:47:38 pm
I'm using a NTSC television. I noticed my famicom does not have any shielding on the underside of the rf board (bought it used years ago, no telling what they did to it) I am going to try to find something the shield it with....I'm wrap that mofo with foil if I have to :) j/k
Ah, your RF board also lacks shielding. So does mine. This seems to be the case for all models that have the "video" contact, as does the FAMICOM in the pictures on that site you linked to. The lack of shield does not affect me in any way. As the RF comes in crystal clear. You should not be getting any interfearence through the AV mod, as the RF board is only for the RF out.
Quote from: silkd on September 23, 2006, 07:47:38 pm
As far as a link for the board with the video contact here you go:
http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html
It's in japanese, but should be easy enough to understand.
Oh my confuzzuledness! I just made Kefka's board for nothing. Or maybe I can adapt it to this design. My eyes are going blind staring at these tiny photos. Thank's for the link though. I will try and figure this out... Do you also have the same board as mine? The one with "video" marked?
Nah, I have the board in kefka's diagram. I know there shouldn't be anything wrong with the av mod, but it is bright and shares the same white lines with the rf out.....I am in the process of getting another famicom now to test out for better luck hopefully.....
Quote from: silkd on September 23, 2006, 09:41:58 pm
Nah, I have the board in kefka's diagram. I know there shouldn't be anything wrong with the av mod, but it is bright and shares the same white lines with the rf out.....I am in the process of getting another famicom now to test out for better luck hopefully.....
That is so strange. It would be interesting to see a picture of these "white lines". On an unrelated note, how hot does your FAMICOM get? Mine gets so warm, that it is uncomfortable to hold your fingers on the rear vent. Also, it gives off a similar smell to soldering. This is after only a few minuets. I would say under 15min.
I'll try to snap a shot of the white lines, I will also snap a shot of the av out being bright....I just have to solder the parts back on, I took them off to solder it to a pc board for a cleaner install. I did some testing and made a makeshift sheilding by putting folding some foil up and putting it in a plastic namebadge holder as not to make contact with the rf underside.....it helped out a little, but still not a clean signal.....hell it's foil :) As far as the heat, I haven't really noticed anything with mine, but I didn't try to pick it up after playing for a while....
Quote from: silkd on September 24, 2006, 01:01:01 pm
I'll try to snap a shot of the white lines, I will also snap a shot of the av out being bright....I just have to solder the parts back on, I took them off to solder it to a pc board for a cleaner install. I did some testing and made a makeshift sheilding by putting folding some foil up and putting it in a plastic namebadge holder as not to make contact with the rf underside.....it helped out a little, but still not a clean signal.....hell it's foil :)
Sheet metal! Menards has it. Though my RF board is naked too. And I do not get any interference. Though there is a radio station just a few blocks away, and every time I turn off my FAMICOM, I hear the stations music for about three seconds until the VCR's signal kicks back in. :D
Quote from: silkd on September 24, 2006, 01:01:01 pm
As far as the heat, I haven't really noticed anything with mine, but I didn't try to pick it up after playing for a while....
Please do. The heat worries me. As I do not know if this is normal. Heck, it gets hotter than my Dreamcast if you can believe that. ???
Hi!!
I am new at this forum and my english is very poor, so please, correct me if I write something wrong :-\
I need some help to build the AV mod at my Famicom: I don't know where I put the ground (gnd) wire. ???
Any help will be welcome! Thanks!
Welcome!
You'll have to e-mail kefka (kefka@famicomworld.com), for he is the one who did the AV mod. He can help you. :)
Welcome to the site. What's your language?
Quote from: juggalones7 on October 04, 2006, 06:57:55 pm
Welcome to the site. What's your language?
Thanks!
I am from Brazil, I speak portuguese ;)
@FamicomJL : thanks for your reply. I will email him for suggestions.
On Saturday I'll try to build the MOD again. Thanks to this thread (http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=247.0) I could manage where the GND goes..
I'll try to take some photos of my MOD and post here.. ;D
So, you have a Famicom? How did you find that?
Quote from: juggalones7 on October 05, 2006, 12:25:26 pm
So, you have a Famicom? How did you find that?
Hi juggalones7, i bought from a friend at here : http://www.nes.com.br/forum. It's a NES forum here in Brazil. I don't know how hard is to find a Famicom anywhere in the globe. :(
At Lik-Sang (http://www.lik-sang.com) there is a lot of Famiclones to sell.
By the way, where do you from?
Well Chanis, I'm from Paradise, Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada.
Hello,
Im new here and ive got a couple of questions.
the pictures of the famicom pcb of the subject av modification are different from mine famicom.
The pcb is shorter an the rf unit is open instead of a small case.
I cant find the solderpoints that are shown in the pictures.
Can somebody explain how i must do this?\
Greets,
Har
ps:
I have photos of the famicom, can i place them here?
I think people can help you better when you post photos. ;)
yes you can place the photo's using img code. they need to be hosted somewhere, since we dont have built in hosting in our establishment here : /
try www.photobucket.com for free (and great) web hosting for images or video
i've noticed a couple people asking this quesiton. the problem is there are multiple versions of the famicom which use different pcb's.
unless someone here knows how to av mod your version, another option is to purchase a pre modded one, or an official av famicom.
both of these run fairly cheap on ebay, a pre modded famicom is about 30 - 50 dollars, and an av about the same for a loose one.
I don't have a Famicom, but I think it would be easy to follow the video signal coming from one of the PPU pins (the PPU is the same in all revisions, even the NES) and tap the signal after the transistor amplifier, the same for the audio (there are actually two audio out pins, which get mixed by some resistors) so you get your audio right after those resistors.
Thanks..
I will post a couple of photographs tomorrow.
An av famicom is cool but here in holland they are very rare and my paypal is blocked! :(
I have photos of my famicom on photobucket.com.
Thanks for the link! :)
I hope that anyone of you guys can help me. ???
Ther are some square shaped solder tin spaces????
http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z285/har-the-cat/
Hello all, I'm relatively new here and fairly new at modding electrical devices (Famicom etc.) I have a question as to whether or not it would be easiest/ cheapest for me to try a mod on my 1983 Famicom, or if it would be safer to buy an AV Famicom, gut it and replace the innards into my '83 Fami. Otherwise I'm afraid I would need a very step by step process or someone walking me through a modification.
I suggest you stick with the one you have. I have got the same model and it is pretty straightforward to mod. If you want I can take some good quality pics of the guts and make a simple schematic (it might be useful for famicomworld, as the tutorial on the page explains a mod to that new fami pcb only).
PS ehm quite familiar nickname ;)
I'm sure Senshi would appreciate that, as would FW. You can send me the pics or just post them here for me to copy. Perhaps I'll add them to our site's AV mod page, which needs to be updated.
Does an AV Modification give the original Famicom the same qualtiy of the picture as an AV Famicom?
I've seen some of theese on eBay, one guy selling them for $35 (and with shipping that was $70!). I'm thinking of buying one of thoose, is that something you guys would recommend me to do? Anyway here is the one I'm talking of: eBay! (http://cgi.ebay.com/NES-FAMICOM-COMPUTER-SYSTEM-CONSOLE-JAPAN-AV-OUT_W0QQitemZ220114188885QQihZ012QQcategoryZ62053QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem)
Quote from: Kreese on August 08, 2007, 09:44:30 pm
Does an AV Modification give the original Famicom the same qualtiy of the picture as an AV Famicom?
I've seen some of theese on eBay, one guy selling them for $35 (and with shipping that was $70!). I'm thinking of buying one of thoose, is that something you guys would recommend me to do? Anyway here is the one I'm talking of: eBay! (http://cgi.ebay.com/NES-FAMICOM-COMPUTER-SYSTEM-CONSOLE-JAPAN-AV-OUT_W0QQitemZ220114188885QQihZ012QQcategoryZ62053QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem)
I bought one of these Famicoms form that guy. He modds the back removing the RF plug. They are real Famicoms and not Famiclones, but I notice some problems on games that support sterio. Boku Dracula Kun you have to play muted because of a high pitched whine that plays continously thoughout the game. He doesn't make them himself, but apparently has a shop that does so, as if you open up one of these systems it'll have a parts number and a store or company logo on it.
All told, its just a better choice to get an actual AV Famicom than to modd an existing one in my opinion.
hello, the board of my famicom is different to the one on the tutorial
it looks like this one:
http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html
I have no problem with the video mod but I'm not sure about how to get the stereo mod since I can't locate points in1, in2 and 5v
thank you
Ok! ;D
Hello,
i'v done the audio part flawlessly however the video part is giving me trouble.
all i got is interferances, i had to use a C33740 as transistor, the 2N3704 is not available in my town.
here's a pic of my soldering if that may help :
[Removed]
thanks in advance.
Try a 2n3904 or a 2n2222 (couldn't find any info on the transistor you used).
Also, I see 2,2Kohm (red-red-red) resistors in there, FW's guide says 22K (red-red-orange).
hello sorry i did a mistake it's a "C33740" or "BC33740"
the resistors are 22kohm, mesured with my digital multimeter.
here's the datasheet
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.co.kr/datasheet-pdf/view/50731/FAIRCHILD/BC33740.html
Have you checked correct transistor pinout? The original is emitter-collector-base and your replacement is collector-base-emitter.
Maybe your camera/lightning is screwing up the colors, I see the resistors red-red-red ???
yes i did correct the pinout but tommorow i'll try to pick up one of the transistors you spoke about.
thank you for your help and fast response
Quote from: 133MHz on November 05, 2007, 02:30:35 pm
Have you checked correct transistor pinout? The original is emitter-collector-base and your replacement is collector-base-emitter.
Maybe your camera/lightning is screwing up the colors, I see the resistors red-red-red ???
that's maybe the trick,as far as i see on the original on the schematic it is Collector(IN1+Capacitor) Base(resistor +IN2 linked with collector) then Emitter (where 5V+resistor is going to RCA output).
correct me if i'm wrong until there.
i bought a 2N222 i'll look at the transistor on it's down side, so the pins are turned to my eyes, the upper pin is the Collector, the pin on the left "base" and the bottom pin Emiter.
so i'll solder IN1 to collector, IN2 to base and the output to emmiter.
Quote from: Diego on August 29, 2007, 03:35:09 am
hello, the board of my famicom is different to the one on the tutorial
it looks like this one:
http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html
I have no problem with the video mod but I'm not sure about how to get the stereo mod since I can't locate points in1, in2 and 5v
thank you
hi, can i have more detailed photo for the mod? (i have the same board from of that link) and from that link i can't see clear because photos are very small and my mod don't work, only the audio.
thanks
now the video work (it was a problem of different transistors pinout)
edit: now audio work but the volume is low (tv volume at max). is normal? what can i use for make it higher?
and how i can use the famicom on pal television? on my i'll see it in black and white :(
please reply me :-\ thx
Quote from: Arnold101 on November 09, 2007, 06:58:12 am
and how i can use the famicom on pal television? on my i'll see it in black and white :(
I think the only solution to that is buying an NTSC TV or buying a PAL Famicom from Hong Kong/Taiwan. I forget if Famicoms from there are PAL.
Or getting a transcoder (little box which translates NTSC video to PAL).
Ooooo. Wow. I hadn't heard of one of those. I guess I should have suspected it...where there's a need, there's a company willing to provide for it.
Those are pretty common in South American countries where the TV system used is PAL but video game consoles are NTSC (or when NTSC games are preferred over PAL). Argentina is a good example, they use PAL-N which is not color-compatible with the more common PAL-B in which video game consoles come, so people used transcoders, hacked their consoles to output PAL-N or technicians installed boards inside their TV sets to do the conversion internally, but today most TVs are multisystem. Chile on the other hand is NTSC-M like the US ;D
I did some investigation onthe AV mod on the site.
it has false things, the biggest mistake if on the video circuit.
you should solder a 5v with the resistor to the RCA output
so i started to wonder the purpose of this until i took my multimeter, the point labeled 5v on the mod is in fact a ground, if you have a look at your board you may guess that without tool.
the ground point on the board like the reset switch ground we use have a CLEAR green as the "5V" point has and all DARK green do carry power.
i finally suceeded to have an output image but it's a so bad quality , i think there's something wrong with the mod on the page, i checked with my multimeter and i don't even have 5V something like 3.7v with or without the link to resistor to ground.
also when the mod is in place the RF unit outputs a so bad signal certainly because of the shortcut on IN1 and IN2 .
could someone or the webmaster give me the original page even in japanese, i can read it if katakana and hiragana are used or even ask for a translation.
thank you
I've been able to find back the original link : http://web.archive.org/web/20060507223007/http://www.chuma55.net/game/special/famicom/contents/famicom2.html
however images are missing, notice the part list is very different from this site.
Quote from: 133MHz on November 09, 2007, 04:33:07 pm
Or getting a transcoder (little box which translates NTSC video to PAL).
oh thanks, do you know one cheap?
i have find this (description says pal ntsc signal supported)
http://www.ebest24.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_241&products_id=1675&language=en
http://cgi.ebay.it/TV-media-Tuner-Ricevitore-Box-per-LCD-CRT-TFT-Monitor_W0QQitemZ290179244543QQihZ019QQcategoryZ138341QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
are the same. it have composite video input and ouput.
it is ok for my use?
and for audio? ;)
Quote from: Arnold101 on November 09, 2007, 06:58:12 am
now audio work but the volume is low (tv volume at max). is normal? what can i use for make it higher?
thanks
No, that's not a transcoder, that's a scan converter to watch TV on your computer monitor. As you say it supports PAL but it won't allow you to watch PAL in your TV, just your PC monitor. I don't know where to get one cheap since I never had the need for one (my country is NTSC-M). Check eBay or electronics stores around you.
As for the low audio, you can build a small amplifier inside the Famicom to boost it a little. A small audio amplifier IC like the LM386 is perfect, between the Famicom's audio output and the audio RCA jack. For power just tap the unregulated supply and you're good to go ;).
Small, cheap and simple audio amp based on the extremely common and cheap LM386 IC:
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/lm386.gif)
As I said put it between the AV mod's audio out and the RCA jack, for power you can tap the unregulated supply since the chip won't care and that way you won't load down the +5V line.
As for the 10k pot you can use a small 'trimmer' one so it will fit inside your Famicom and you'll only need to adjust it once. Set your TV to a comfortable volume level (the one you use most) and turn the pot until it sounds at a good volume and no audible distortion is heard.
Quote from: 133MHz on November 10, 2007, 05:33:58 pm
No, that's not a transcoder, that's a scan converter to watch TV on your computer monitor. As you say it supports PAL but it won't allow you to watch PAL in your TV, just your PC monitor. I don't know where to get one cheap since I never had the need for one (my country is NTSC-M). Check eBay or electronics stores around you.
As for the low audio, you can build a small amplifier inside the Famicom to boost it a little. A small audio amplifier IC like the LM386 is perfect, between the Famicom's audio output and the audio RCA jack. For power just tap the unregulated supply and you're good to go ;).
thanks mate ;)
the one that i inked have the composite video out for tv, see it here
(http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/6219/mb9882saik2.jpg)
and it support ntsc-pal so i think is good. or not? (can you link me your type of transcoder?)
for audio: so is normal the low audio in famicom av mod or affect only me? and what is the function of the 1uf capacitor for the audio?
thanks for info for the LM386, i have some question on it
1- at Vin goes famicom audio, and to Vs ?
2- the trimmer you say goes on Vin side right? i see it here http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/MiniBenchAmp/MiniBenchAmp.html (http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/MiniBenchAmp/MiniBenchAmp.html)
this volume trimmer, but what is the component name? i can't find
3- for power i have not understand very well, it can be linked to 5v of the famicom or not?
4-gain 20 is good for my very low volume?
on the circuit i see various resistors simbol, one with number and k and other without the k. example 10k and 10. why?
big thanks for the help ;)
Quote from: Arnold101 on November 10, 2007, 07:53:21 pm
the one that i inked have the composite video out for tv, see it here
and it support ntsc-pal so i think is good. or not? (can you link me your type of transcoder?)
Yeah but the composite out is just a pass-through, the signal will pass as-is as if the box weren't connected.
Here (http://www.satkit.com/b2c/index.php?page=pp_producto.php&md=0&codp=1473)'s one of the transcoders I'm talking about. ;)
Quote from: Arnold101 on November 10, 2007, 07:53:21 pm
for audio: so is normal the low audio in famicom av mod or affect only me? and what is the function of the 1uf capacitor for the audio?
I don't have a Famicom, so I can't tell. Maybe your TV is a little finicky about the signals it receives, and a little boost may be all that's needed. The capacitor blocks any DC going to the speaker. (speakers don't like DC, it produces no sound at all, makes the voice coil hot and could burn it).
Quote from: Arnold101 on November 10, 2007, 07:53:21 pm
thanks for info for the LM386, i have some question on it
1- at Vin goes famicom audio, and to Vs ?
2- the trimmer you say goes on Vin side right? i see it here http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/MiniBenchAmp/MiniBenchAmp.html (http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/MiniBenchAmp/MiniBenchAmp.html)
this volume trimmer, but what is the component name? i can't find
3- for power i have not understand very well, it can be linked to 5v of the famicom or not?
4-gain 20 is good for my very low volume?
on the circuit i see various resistors simbol, one with number and k and other without the k. example 10k and 10. why?
big thanks for the help ;)
1) Vs is the LM386's supply voltage. You can connect it to the +5V or to the unregulated supply line. Just connect it after the power switch so the thing does not stay on all the time ;).
2) Yes, the 10k trimmer goes in there. I think it's called trimmer potentiometer.
3) Yes you can. I recommend tapping the unregulated ~10V though, but it will work both ways.
4) Yeah, you don't need a lot of gain, just a little boost (remember the TV has an amplifier inside, you don't want to overload it, because it'll sound horrible).
10k is 10 kilo ohms or 10.000 ohms, 10 is 10 ohms. Simple ;D
thanks, perfect as ever ;D
for gain, i want to use it even on the dolby digital 5.1 home theater (that now at max volume is low like television)
so it's ok the connect it at 5v of the av mod? because you talked of the 10v (and where it is?)
Thanks for the transcoder link ;D i want that model, but the shop don't have anymore :-X
do you know another european shop that have it? thanks ;)
Quote from: Arnold101 on November 11, 2007, 06:23:08 am
thanks, perfect as ever ;D
for gain, i want to use it even on the dolby digital 5.1 home theater (that now at max volume is low like television)
If it works well on your TV, it will work well on your home theater system too.
Quote from: Arnold101 on November 11, 2007, 06:23:08 am
so it's ok the connect it at 5v of the av mod? because you talked of the 10v (and where it is?)
You can tap the unregulated supply at the left pin of the 7805 voltage regulator on the RF board. The middle one is ground and the right one is the regulated +5V supply for the CPU. You can experiment with each one to see which one gives the best results.
Quote from: Arnold101 on November 11, 2007, 06:23:08 am
Thanks for the transcoder link ;D i want that model, but the shop don't have anymore :-X
do you know another european shop that have it? thanks ;)
Unfortunately I don't know another place to get it. Maybe someone here who lives in Europe might know ;).
play asia have the transcoder
thanks for 7805 info ;D ;)
Here (http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-11z-49-en-70-1au-4-6.html)'s the transcoder Arnold101 found on Play-Asia.com .
Maybe this could be stickied somewhere on the site to help our members trying to play their NTSC Famis on PAL TVs ;D
I just want to say that you do not normally need a transcoder or anything like that to use a Famicom (or any other NTSC system) on a modern PAL TV. Most PAL TVs from 2000 or later support NTSC signals through composite, and will work just fine. The few exceptions are really small and/or cheap no-brand TVs. If your TV does not support NTSC through composite, it's time to buy a new one.
Yeah. It is common for PAL TVs to support NTSC, but not common to see NTSC TVs with PAL support.
I've never seen a NTSC that supports PAL, which would be cool because I would love to play Elite and the other European games that don't work right on NTSC.
low audio volume problem for this (http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html) famicom mobo: fixed ;D
instead of use the green cable point, use two jack for audio, one on pin1 and one on pin2 of famicom cpu, now it sounds fantastic ;D (and it's stereo, in that mod is mono)
infact if you connect on a single jack pin1 and pin2 together it sounds again low
Yeah, you shouldn't connect pin 1 & 2 on the CPU together directly without some kind of resistor in between, thats bad mmkay ;D.
Little question about the Famicom AV modification in Workshop section.
In this article some capacitors are needed to build audio and video amp. But if you give the capacitors capacity, you forget the voltage. Which is the voltage needed for these capacitors ?
You can probably get away with the lowest voltage ones since the Famicom is a low voltage device and they're not very critical.
Also, welcome to the forums! ;D. There's an intro thread on the Off Topic Chat board so we get to know more about yourself and you get to know more about us ;).
Oh thank ;)
The lowest voltage that I found is 35v for 1µF and 10v for 47µF. Good or not good ? ???
Perfect.
OK, if I want add stereo sound with the FDS (FDS sound, taken from cartridge port). The stereo sound is compose of 2 channels. But, the Famicom carries the FDS sound through cartridge port, what it give 3 channels (pin 01 and 02 + FDS sound).
The FDS is in mono, and 2A03 is in pseudo stereo (2 pin for 2 channels).
How I can mix 1 mono source with 1 strereo source ?
hi!
there is written that the mod is for HVC-001
i have a HVC-002 console... thats no problem, is it?
Quote from: Scorp.ius on March 04, 2008, 11:01:03 am
hi!
there is written that the mod is for HVC-001
i have a HVC-002 console... thats no problem, is it?
HVC-002 is the Famicom power supply, not the console. Are you sure it's not HVC-001?
hmmm.. there is a sticker on the underside of the console...
but yes - in the plastic there is a HVC-001
so propably the sticker says: "use the power supply HVC-002 only" or somethin ::)
Quote from: Scorp.ius on March 05, 2008, 12:09:05 am
so propably the sticker says: "use the power supply HVC-002 only" or somethin ::)
Yes.
hi!
i have done the AV Mod now on my famicom...
unfortunately my TV shows black/white prictures. it cant display NTSC as it seems >:(
Then get this (http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-11z-49-en-15-pal+ntsc-70-1au.html).
yes thanks, i allready have searched for such devices on ebay ;)
i have tested the famicom on my other TV. its a samsung HD Ready LCD and there it is in color. thats for testing purposes of course since i dont want the famicom running on an LCD :P
-
BUT there are some kinds of ghost images on the screen and a stripe of ghost pixels in the middle of the screen... is there something wrong with my mod, or is the NTSC acceptance of my TV not as good as it should? ;)
i try to make a foto of this...
in Donkey Kong 3 there is the Ghost Stripe in the middle of the screen. this is in every game and depends on the colors that are onscreen
in SMB there is a ghost bush - the original bush (see PicInPic) was on the left side of the same screen... this is in every game here and there.
Hello,
On a recent trip to Japan I picked up a Famicom wooo!
I knew there would be problems with actually displaying the games as Australia uses the PAL standard but no worries I would just complete the AV mod.
I have now attempted the AV mod without any success. I think the problem lies in the 5v input for the video source, using the ground off of the reset switch there seems to be no voltage potential from the specified pins on the article or any of the surrounding pins.
Also there is no audio, so this leads me to believe something must be broken? I'll try and get a few photos up but if anyone has any ideas please chime in.
Rob
I have a question about applying the AV mod to a Fami board with the posts marked 'video', 'audio' and 'grnd'.
Having researched the Japanese guide linked earlier in this thread (Google translated here (http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.h3.dion.ne.jp%2F%7Ekuboken%2Ffamicom%2Ffamav.html&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF8)) I read some posts on another forum (http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=723.0) saying this mod is essentially adding a poor amplifier directly to the board. Take that out and you can pretty much run the cables directly from those points to the RCA jacks although the signal would be very weak.
So now I'm thinking a better solution would be to build Kefka's amp board but attach it to the points marked on my board (assuming I only have mono sound so there's only one cable to connect). Is there any reason why this wouldn't work? I've pretty much got nothing to lose so it's got to be worth a shot.
Quote from: Scorp.ius on March 08, 2008, 01:14:04 am
yes thanks, i allready have searched for such devices on ebay ;)
i have tested the famicom on my other TV. its a samsung HD Ready LCD and there it is in color. thats for testing purposes of course since i dont want the famicom running on an LCD :P
-
BUT there are some kinds of ghost images on the screen and a stripe of ghost pixels in the middle of the screen... is there something wrong with my mod, or is the NTSC acceptance of my TV not as good as it should? ;)
i try to make a foto of this...
in Donkey Kong 3 there is the Ghost Stripe in the middle of the screen. this is in every game and depends on the colors that are onscreen
in SMB there is a ghost bush - the original bush (see PicInPic) was on the left side of the same screen... this is in every game here and there.
I probably have THE same exact samsung as you.i bought a Composite to S-Video cable from s-video.com,it seemed to get rid of the ghost pixels but the stripeyness still remains
Hey guys,
I'm trying to AV mod my Famicom, using the guide on the site. However, it seems like the board I have is quite different to the one picture in the guide, so I can't figure out where to solder.
I bought it pre-modded, but I couldn't seem to get a picture (I know it works though), so I removed the mod to redo myself.
Here's a picture of the board that I have:
(http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/9219/famicomboardee8.jpg)
I also have some photos of the previous mod, if those would be any help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated ;D
Your system looks like a famiclone, not an original famicom. Could you post some more pics of it, perhaps of the mod and the other side of the boards? The Makko Toys, LTD is a good tip-off that it's not an original Nintendo Famicom.
Yes I was a little bit suspicious, but I don't know, apart from that board, everything looks really genuine.
Anyway, here are all the photos I took of the mod before I removed it. I also re-did the mod myself by using the pictures (I was hoping that previously a solder point had broken or something..) and didn't get a picture.
(http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/5807/f1gy8.jpg)
General overview of the mod.
(http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/1789/f2gp6.jpg)
I assume this is the booster for the video, though I don't know exactly (seems factory made - not handmade).
(http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/9762/f5bt5.jpg)
RF board (note the hole in the voltage regulator... replaced that ;))
(http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/927/f6ez9.jpg)
This is the main board - looks pretty authentic to me.
(http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd339/gameclubretro/famicomav2.jpg)
The case. Again, looks like it's authentic.
Also, I suppose it would be a good idea to mention that I originally used an AC power adapter (NES) which blew a hole in the voltage regulator. However, I did replace it, and seeing as an LED works, I guess the whole thing is working.
Looks like everything is authentic, except for the second smaller board, which is definitely from a Famiclone based on the corporate markings. I'm pretty sure I've seen that dude with the hat on same Famiclones or pirates or something...
Seems that way. Still, shouldn't really be a problem though right? The AV mod described on the site uses the main board only anyway. I just can't figure out how to mod the board that I have.
I did see a guide on a Japanese site that was posted here a while ago, but the pictures are microscopic, and the text makes no sense when translated :'(
Edit: also, would it be possible to get a replacement RF board perhaps? I guess something other than the voltage regulator might have gone as well when I used the AC power supply... hmm.
Somebody ought to know how to do it. Seems there were several versions of the Famicom board, and unfortunately, our mod page only shows one of the boards.
Ok, I've had a long hard look at two guides on this Japanese site, and I think I know what to do now. I'm going to pick up the parts this week and I'll let you know if I get a decent picture out of it. If not, I'm going to assume it's broken and try and get another Famicom at some point.
http://66.102.9.104/translate_c?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html&usg=ALkJrhiHrSw39ULLIEDIF9ViC3Mn5Mz4YQ
That's the guide I'm using. I know the pics are small but it does look simple enough.
Ok, I tried the mod on the page and the best I could get was an extremely fuzzy and distorted black and white, rolling picture. I guess my famicom is dead - ah well. Hopefully in the future I can get a new one, that I know is 100% official and works :P
Are you in a PAL country? Maybe your AV mod is fine but your TV can't sync to the Famicom's NTSC signal.
I am, and I guess it's possible, but I've imported pretty much all my other consoles from the US and they work fine. I might try it on another TV I have, but I doubt I'll get anything from it.
Hi I guess I have exactly the same problem. I got all the parts to do the mod, I made the audio/video circuit and when I opened my famicom it was completely different then the one in the tutorial on this site :-[ Here is a big detailed photo of my board: http://www.signsofshift.com/gfx/famicom.jpg
Then I took a look at http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html) which shows the mod for a different mod than the one in the tutorial and I guess it the same board I have but because the photos are so bludy tiny and the crappy translation it's not clear to me what i have to do at all, i can guess where all the parts go but attaching the wires is pretty vague.
Please help me! I'm more than happy to make a new mod page for boards like this to put on this site but I really need some clear (i'm not a pro with electronics) info to understand it myself first! Thanks!!!
Use the points clearly marked as VCC, GND, VIDEO and SOU.
Quote from: 133MHz on November 20, 2008, 07:03:46 am
Use the points clearly marked as VCC, GND, VIDEO and SOU.
Thanks! I put some more effort into it and I uploaded a new photo (http://www.signsofshift.com/gfx/famicom.jpg) in which I described how I understand the instructions mentioned on http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html . I might have done something wrong (if so please tell me) but if not I'll give the mod a go. I intend to keep this photo online on my server and hope that it will save other people time/puzzling so please share the photo if it's correct.
Oh yeah and is it necessary to use the 2SC1815 transistor or is the 2N3704 (the one in the tutorial) fine as well?
bump...
Well I gave the mod a go like mentioned on http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html, however I used a 2N3704 Transistor and a 47 uF capacitor. When I hooked it up to my PAL TV (which supports NTSC through the scart) I got a pretty sharp video signal straight away :)
However, there's no audio at all, although I do hear humming noises and cracks that seem to correspond with the original music in the game. I'm using a 3.5mm stereo jack but i only have 2 wires coming from the board to connect to it (1 signal and 1 ground i reckon) so I guess this might be the problem. I tried different kinds of connection on the jack socket but am a bit scared for short cicuit. Do I need a mono jack to get some sound?
Found out that I connected the audio signal to the wrong point on the board, audio + video is working fine now :) New instructions can be found at http://www.signsofshift.com/gfx/famicom.jpg
Just thought I'd post some pics of my AV modded Famicom. Might come in handy for someone, though this mod seems to output faded color. Notice that the white wire, which goes from the amp circuit to the RF port, is audio. The black cord to the right is the video. The gray ribbon wires steal the audio and video from the main board for the amp circuit. The trace for the RF on the small green board is cut, which you can kind of see under the white wire near the RF port.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/SANY02712.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/SANY02722.jpg)
Speaking of that, I've recently AV modded my Famicom, which luckily had a board like the one on the site, so I just promptly followed the guide on Famicom World. It worked, except for these:
- Picture was WAY TOO BRIGHT
- Oversaturated, lacking in contrast and color
- Sometimes it would lose vertical sync (picture rolling down the screen)
Coming back to this thread I've seen that some people have the same problem as I am.
Good thing is: I've found a fix. Just add a 75 ohm resistor in series with the video output and there you go! Perfect video! ;D ;D ;D
Try to get a 1% tolerance resistor for this. The more exact the value is, the better ;).
You might want to consider adding this info to the Famicom AV mod page. I also drew a much nicer schematic if you're interested :P.
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/famavmod.gif)
EDIT: Added schematic
I've had a me4taki9oh AV- modded fami for a year now, and I still haven't solved its issue with not playing enhanced cartridge sound. It looks like he does a rather quick and sloppy job of the mod:
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2n7uop.jpg)
Rotated 90 degrees:
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2uenrjc.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/50s7i9.jpg)
It's difficult to see in the pictures (testament to my ancient camera and poor photography skills), but he tapped video from the VIDEO pin (yellow wire), audio from the SOU pin (white wire), then grounded both to the VCC pin, then takes those wires directly to RCA plugs for the TV.
The problem is that this only takes internal-generated sound, leaving out that additional sound from the FDS and other cartridges. Is it possible to capture that sound as well via simple soldering and without additional capacitors, resistors, etc.?
If the audio is being tapped off the CPU pins, then you're not going to get any FDS sound through.
To get FDS sound you need to tap the audio signal from the point where it leaves the motherboard and enters the RF modulator board.
OK. so I can simply remove the audio wire from the SOU pin and re-solder it to another pin on the main board?
am I getting the right idea here? note the purple numbers on the pins at the bottom of the image.
(http://i44.tinypic.com/kcb440.jpg)
unfortunately I'm not experienced in this at all, so sorry if I'm not understanding.
Exactly how difficult is the AV mod to do? I've been thinking of doing this, but I've never used a soldering iron in my life. Should I get someone else to do it? My uncle's pretty tech-smart, he might be able to help.
the cheap version, as was done to my famicom, is actually very simple. get your uncle or someone to show you soldering, which isn't as tough as it looks, and the rest is a cinch, but if you're using an FDS or AD3, I still haven't found out how to get the extra audio.
Edit: Pin 3 (counting from left and looking towards RF modulator) contains the mixed audio, so my A/V modified famicom is now functioning perfectly with a very easy mod (solder just a few wires).
Quote from: paletti on December 15, 2008, 08:19:09 am
Found out that I connected the audio signal to the wrong point on the board, audio + video is working fine now :) New instructions can be found at http://www.signsofshift.com/gfx/famicom.jpg
Hi I'm new here. Congrats on your successful mod. I just want to know whats the voltage rating on the capacitor you used? And on which side is the + soldered to? Thanks a bunch.
Quote from: 133MHz on January 01, 2009, 02:12:59 pm
Speaking of that, I've recently AV modded my Famicom, which luckily had a board like the one on the site, so I just promptly followed the guide on Famicom World. It worked, except for these:
- Picture was WAY TOO BRIGHT
- Oversaturated, lacking in contrast and color
- Sometimes it would lose vertical sync (picture rolling down the screen)
Coming back to this thread I've seen that some people have the same problem as I am.
Good thing is: I've found a fix. Just add a 75 ohm resistor in series with the video output and there you go! Perfect video! ;D ;D ;D
Try to get a 1% tolerance resistor for this. The more exact the value is, the better ;).
You might want to consider adding this info to the Famicom AV mod page. I also drew a much nicer schematic if you're interested :P.
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/famavmod.gif)
EDIT: Added schematic
Hi. I'm not much of the electronics guy, but i noticed that your video circuit is way different from the tutorial by Kefka. His circuit has 2 inputs with the +5V on the emitter. Yours on the other hand, has 1 input and +5V on the collector. I'm a bit confused. I may need an explanation.
Where to solder the ground on Kefka's mod is also not indicated. I guess i need help on that too.
You're talking about this one?
(http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/AVMod2.jpg)
I tried following it, but it's confusing. The point marked "+5v" is really a ground, and the point marked "in2" is really +5V. "in1" is the video input. And yeah, the transistor connection is somewhat reversed ???. So I've just followed the schematic on the Japanese page (had to add a 75 ohm resistor in series to make my TV happy), and while at it, drew a nice schematic.
I can assure that my schematic is pretty straightforward, and 100% tested & working ;).
Thanks. i now know where the ground is. By the way, what is the voltage rating of the 47uF capacitor you used?
I can't remember exactly right now, but the voltage is so low that anything will do :).
In fact I just took the first 47uF capacitor that I saw lying around my parts bin.
Quote from: Syzygy01 on January 18, 2009, 10:25:28 am
the cheap version, as was done to my famicom, is actually very simple. get your uncle or someone to show you soldering, which isn't as tough as it looks, and the rest is a cinch, but if you're using an FDS or AD3, I still haven't found out how to get the extra audio.
Edit: Pin 3 (counting from left and looking towards RF modulator) contains the mixed audio, so my A/V modified famicom is now functioning perfectly with a very easy mod (solder just a few wires).
Does the "Cheap" version support the FDS's FM synthesis sound? Also, could you link a guide to it?
Tired of R/F switches, Rogles? :D
Yeah... I also want to be able to play on more TVs than the crappy old one in my attic.
Originally, no.
me4taki9oh soldered the audio wire to the SOU pin on the motherboard, which does not include enhanced cartridge sound. I simply had to remove this connection, then resolder the wire to a different pin located where the audio leaves the motherboard and enters the RF output box.
So, in short, yes, it does work just fine with the FDS and other cartridge sound enhancements.
There is no guide for this mod of which I know; if you want, if anyone has high-resolution pictures of the motherboard, I can show you which pins you need to tap onto to complete the mod.
Hello all ,
I'm looking to buy a Famicom very soon...( in a month and a half or so...) ;D
but I'm not having any luck finding an AV modded one. :(
so I was wondering is ther anyone here who could maybe mod it for me ?
I can pay for shipping and any parts that may be required...
Thanks for your time.
PM sent
i 2 got my first fami from me4taki9oh and had the same thing but 133 came to my rescue ;) thanks again 133
Hey 133,
How much would you charge me for the mod ?
Thanks for your time.
How do i do that without ruining my famicom? i want it to output analog video and mono sound.
could anyone post the guts of their AV modded famicom so i could see how its made?
Quote from: 133MHz on November 11, 2007, 01:56:59 pm
Here (http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-11z-49-en-70-1au-4-6.html)'s the transcoder Arnold101 found on Play-Asia.com .
Maybe this could be stickied somewhere on the site to help our members trying to play their NTSC Famis on PAL TVs ;D
umm its AV only >_> show me a NTSC RF to PAL RF and im happy
i also looked at this and i didn't understand a shit could you make a version for a technical noob to understand
http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/AV_Mod.
EDIT: should i pay some guy that knows technical stuff and shit to modify it?
Read this whole thread. Me & several other members have contributed with valuable information :).
Okay, but i dont think i will do it myself, because i dont want to bust up my famicom.
Ok guys, I bought my first famicom off ebay, AV modded of course, not too long ago, and It just got here today. I plug her in and...the picture seemed really dark, with REALLY weird colors, for some games it almost looked like the 3d effect you'd find in 3d world runner, or that one racing game. So anyway, not only that, but theres no sound! I thought it was my AV splitter box, so I tried it in my TV directly, nothing. Now's where it gets really weird, It works on EVERY TV BUT MINE! I have a 32 inch HD tv, I dont know what that has to do with it but it works on my flatscreen HD Sony computer moniter... (i think the moniters like 20 inches or so) as well as my sister's CR TV I took some pictures for you guys, and I have a picture to compare tower of druaga (regular screen cap) and how it plays on my system on my TV....
Heres the ugly tower of druaga
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/Oldsmaniac/stuff002.jpg)
Ugly Taru-ruto kun in fantastic world title
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/Oldsmaniac/stuff004-1.jpg)
Normal tower of druaga
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/Oldsmaniac/TowerofDruaga_001.png)
Now the camera made it seem alot better then it really is, but once again theres NO sound and a weirddd picture.
I ran into the same problem with a heavily modded NES I had, or maybe it was a Famicom I can't remember for sure. The TV I was testing it on reacted the same way yours did and I tried everything to get it to work properly (tons of resoldering) until I happened to test it on another input and it worked fine. It was probably due to the capacitance of that particular A/V input or something like that.
Interesting reading material (Japanese):
http://www002.upp.so-net.ne.jp/jsrc/densi/fcav2.html
From what I understood thanks to Google Translate, the guy actually observed the video signal from the Famicom on an oscilloscope and carefully designed a circuit that generates an accurate composite video signal, therefore providing the most high quality video output you can get from the red-white machine. :D
The circuit is a little more complicated than the one we're used to here, but the increase in complexity gets you a more accurate and thus higher quality video signal. This might solve the problems that some people have with the picture being too dark or too washed out on some TV sets, since the simpler version of the circuit does not generate a 100% accurate composite video signal, which could make some TVs upset.
P.S: Manuel, if you've got some time to spare, please give it a quick reading and give us some of your insights (mostly regarding the accuracy of what I understood ::)).
That's the mod I did, its a bit bright so I may add a resistor into the mix. First though, I need to check the RF module and see what's causing this strange buzz or hum.
Turns out the mic is shot in the second controller. Lets try cleaning that and as for the worst case scenario, replacing the second controller.
Gotta love it when it turns out to be a very simple problem rather than a more complicated and potentially painful suspect (main filter capacitor, voltage regulator).
Quote from: paletti on December 15, 2008, 08:19:09 am
Found out that I connected the audio signal to the wrong point on the board, audio + video is working fine now :) New instructions can be found at http://www.signsofshift.com/gfx/famicom.jpg
Hi guys the older link doesn't work anymore so I'd thought I'd update it, good luck with the modz!
http://img534.imageshack.us/i/img0004sp.jpg/
whatever happened to the tutorial in the workshop section? :(
It had some inaccuracies so we didn't bring it over to the new design. A better article is planned.
ahhh cool! thanks very much, very new to the forum but i love it already :)
Quote from: UglyJoe on February 09, 2010, 09:18:23 am
It had some inaccuracies so we didn't bring it over to the new design. A better article is planned.
That's good to know, especially with the different boards and such.
Quick question: If you tap the video directly from the motherboard without the built amplifier do you get any picture or will the signal be too low to operate?
I recently picked up a Famicom but haven't had time to buy the components for the circuit so I just tapped the video directly into a phono jack to see if the system was working but I only received a brief discolored and out of sync image then the screen went blank and stayed in the television input screen.
Is it normal not to receive any video without the amp in between or must it be there to get any type of picture? I will be buying the components this weekend but my impatient self just had to give it a try.
Thanks
Quote from: sparky on March 25, 2010, 11:24:13 pm
Quick question: If you tap the video directly from the motherboard without the built amplifier do you get any picture or will the signal be too low to operate?
The picture will be really dark and most likely out of sync, but depending on the TV it should be recognizable.
Quote from: sparky on March 25, 2010, 11:24:13 pm
I recently picked up a Famicom but haven't had time to buy the components for the circuit so I just tapped the video directly into a phono jack to see if the system was working but I only received a brief discolored and out of sync image then the screen went blank and stayed in the television input screen.
It seems that your TV is blanking the video because the signal doesn't meet proper voltage standards. An older TV, especially one that doesn't mute or blank the video when there's no valid signal present should be able to display the Famicom's unamplified video signal. Newer TVs just give up on anything that's too faint or noisy.
Interesting! I guess I should just wait until I have the proper components to work on the amplifier and see what results I get from there. Thank you for the reply, I appreciate the help.
Okay, having some problems here. Built the amplifier and got a steady, bright picture. The problem was there still was no sound wired up and it was a mess of wires. I mounted the mono jacks on the side of the Famicom and put all the wires in place.
I don't remember exactly how I had the wiring done previously coming off the motherboard but I tried my best to remember. At this point I only get sound now but no picture! Very strange but I assume it's a grounding issue. Any ideas why I get sound but no picture?
It's like my previous post again where I see a faint image and it disappears. I'm going to spend more time on this tomorrow and see what it leads to.
Thanks
(http://i39.tinypic.com/nn7beo.jpg)
Could someone post the schematics or tutorial that used to be on the site? Thanks! :)
Not to pile on here, but I've read the entire thread and it seems like there isn't a unified tutorial for this, and that in any case the steps differ depending on the board you're using and the desired effect.
I'm completely new to soldering and this kind of modification, but can learn with ease if the steps are explained. As it stands, the schematics posted above were about 80% confusing to me.
Below I've posted images of the board I have. A bit of hand-holding (PM is also welcome) and indications about what parts, where to get them, etc., would be fantastic. I would be happy to reciprocate the favor by posting my reactions and results upon completion of the mod.
The case lists it as HVC-001, but the sticker states that it be used with DC Adapter HVC-002. Not sure why there is that discrepancy.
The power supply (?) housing reads: 1.5A SSFB. I have the original manual with warranty information, and this was purchased in 1991. I'm not sure of what vintage that makes it. The stamping on the housing for the power, RF jacks, etc., says copyright 1988.
Please let me know if the attached images are not enough and more detailed shots are needed. I am not too clear about how to read the PCB. Does the mod go inside of the metal housing at the back? If so, that area is not pictured.
Please also let me know if posting images inline like this is verboten.
Thanks in advance. Fingers crossed on first post,
soft
(http://imgur.com/cN5wY.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/3hbaj.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/4RXZv.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/HoizI.jpg)
Well I will try to make some tutorial, at least for the hardest part - finding the right solder points on your famicom pcb. Then you will have four wires coming out of your famicom and you can then experiment on the rest.
And I really think this thread should be merged with this one:
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=4713.0 (http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=4713.0)EDIT:Tutorial is ready.
Video output is on Pin21 of the PPU chip on all original Family computer HVC-001 models (1983-1989) but the placement of the PPU chip on the famicom PCB could be different. Connecting Ground and +5V on the voltage regulator is the same for all original Family computer HVC-001 models (1983-1989). Connecting Sound output could be different on different famicom models.
Also, for soldering newbies - watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4)
Quote from: soft on May 12, 2010, 04:56:03 pm
The case lists it as HVC-001, but the sticker states that it be used with DC Adapter HVC-002. Not sure why there is that discrepancy.
The only number that is important here is the PCB model number printed on top of the famicom PCB - yours is HVC-CPU-GPM-02 made in 1989. HVC-002 is the part number of the adapter (the sticker says:"Use only original famicom adapter - part number HVC-002" or something like that). HVC-001 is the main body of the famicom together with controllers.
EDIT2:According to
this thread (http://nesdev.parodius.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=56&sid=0868e2ed7a3a965d25767e44d666fce2) on nesdev.parodius.com forums,
and according to
this famicom schematics (http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod/famicom_schematics_audio.gif)the audio output on every famicom model should be on the
cartridge connector pin number 46 (http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod/sound.gif) EDIT3: I have confirmed that cartridge connector pin number 46 is audio on all famicom and famiclone models.
CONCLUSION:Video output = pin #21 of PPU
Audio output = pin #46 of Cartridge connector
+5V = pin# 3 of "7805" voltage regulator
Ground = pin# 2 of "7805" voltage regulator
(...now I realized that somebody somewhere surely posted this a long time ago, sorry for that, I was just very excited to find it out myself.)
Quote from: soft on May 12, 2010, 04:56:03 pm
Not to pile on here, but I've read the entire thread and it seems like there isn't a unified tutorial for this, and that in any case the steps differ depending on the board you're using and the desired effect.
I'm completely new to soldering and this kind of modification, but can learn with ease if the steps are explained. As it stands, the schematics posted above were about 80% confusing to me.
Below I've posted images of the board I have. A bit of hand-holding (PM is also welcome) and indications about what parts, where to get them, etc., would be fantastic. I would be happy to reciprocate the favor by posting my reactions and results upon completion of the mod.
The case lists it as HVC-001, but the sticker states that it be used with DC Adapter HVC-002. Not sure why there is that discrepancy.
The power supply (?) housing reads: 1.5A SSFB. I have the original manual with warranty information, and this was purchased in 1991. I'm not sure of what vintage that makes it. The stamping on the housing for the power, RF jacks, etc., says copyright 1988.
Please let me know if the attached images are not enough and more detailed shots are needed. I am not too clear about how to read the PCB. Does the mod go inside of the metal housing at the back? If so, that area is not pictured.
Please also let me know if posting images inline like this is verboten.
Thanks in advance. Fingers crossed on first post,
soft
I have modified mine with this scheme easily
http://yoshikiyoshiki.hp.infoseek.co.jp/AVFC.html
Hi,
I'm trying to AV mod a Famicom HVC-001HKG (Hong-Kong Version), motherboard HVC-CPU-NPC-26-01 with a RP2C02G-0.
When I bought it, it was already modde, but the sound was clear but with a low buzz on the background and the picture quality was poor too.
Here is a picture of the original mod :
(http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/thumb/t_Famicom_HK_Mod_03.jpg) (http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/Famicom_HK_Mod_03.jpg)
You can see that sound has no ground. At first I was thinking it was the reason of the buzzing.
Side-by-side pictures to compare with my Sharp Twin Famicom AN-505 (pics on the right side) :
(http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/thumb/t_Game_01_Famicom_HK.jpg) (http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/Game_01_Famicom_HK.jpg)(http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/thumb/t_Game_01_Twin_Sharp.jpg) (http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/Game_01_Twin_Sharp.jpg)
(http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/thumb/t_Game_02_Famicom_HK.jpg) (http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/Game_02_Famicom_HK.jpg)(http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/thumb/t_Game_02_Twin_Sharp.jpg) (http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_ModGame_02_Twin_Sharp.jpg)
The motherboard :
(http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/thumb/t_Famicom_HK_Mod_04.jpg) (http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/Famicom_HK_Mod_04.jpg)
How I did solder my wires :
(http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/thumb/t_Famicom_HK_Mod_05.jpg) (http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/Famicom_HK_Mod_05.jpg)
I took the same +5 V as the original mod because when the console is switched-off there's no +5 V coming. If I take it from the 7805, I have +5 V as long as the power cord is plugged, no matter the console is on or off, and I don't like this.
I took the ground from the cartridge connector and the audio too (by the way this pin 46 is connected to the point of the original mod too).
I soldered two wires for the video signal, one on the pin 21 of the PPU and the other where it was originally.
On a breed board, I did back the original mod (two 33 kOhm resistors and one C1815), the console worked like before.
Then I tried two others mods, this one (http://www002.upp.so-net.ne.jp/jsrc/densi/fcav2.html) and this one (http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod.htm) too.
For those two mods and with the video signal taken from pin 21 of the PPU I got nothing but a black screen and no sound (it appears that the Famicom only sends sound if video is received on the TV).
But if I use the "original mod video signal", I got a scrambled image and buzzy sound.
If I send the "original mod video signal" directly to TV I got a too bright picture, if I directly send the pin 21 signal video, I got a dark picture.
If I send the "original mod video signal" through a 75 Ohm metal resistor I get something nice but there are some parasites like moiré all other the screen (like for the original mod, but with a better picture) and the sound is still buzzy. I did try a 220 µF with the resistor, but it changed nothing neither for the video nor the sound.
Thanks a lot for any help, answer, advice.
Gallery pictures here : http://jomay.free.fr/Famicom_HK_AV_Mod/
The buzzing is probably caused from the Player 2 microphone volume control. Try unplugging the controller from the PCB or moving the slider around and see if it stops.
The buzzing is still there even if I remove the second controller :(
But what I find strange is that I can't have the same result as the others with the video from pin 21.
Nobody can help :( ?
At least, is the mod for the HK board the same as the one for the japanese board ?
Thanks.
Bumping this topic again, this time for a friend who is searching for a solution to a curious problem. I'm forwarding the email I got:
-------------------------
I'm a brand new and happy owner of a Famicom and wanted to modify it to make it usable on my TV (I'm living in France).
After doing researches online and comparing the different modification methods, I decided to make yours, as it seemed for me the clearest, most recent and universal one (I understand this is the kyuusaku's schematics (http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod/kyuusaku.gif) we're talking about)
Anyway, what I get is a (clear, anyway) image that is black and white. This is the first time I experience problems with japanese consoles as I play many other ones (like the PC Engine) in colour on the 2 TVs I have.
So I decided to buy a Pal > NTSC converter but the picture is still in b&w on my 2 TVs.
I was wondering if you heard about similar issues and if you can use directly your Famicom on your TV without using a signal converter (as I guess we got the same TV standard in Europe).
-----------------------
If the TV displays other NTSC consoles fine, I don't understand why the Famicom has B/W picture. Any help appreciated!
P.M. sent... :bomb:
This is my first post here so Hi everyone !
I'm the guy jpx72 is talking about.
I've tried my modded Famicom on 6 TVs (in which a pretty recent LCD TV which clearly accept NTSC).
I've tried this mod : http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod.htm
Then this one : http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav2.html
I also tried plugging directly the video out from the motherboard to the RCA cable without putting the video amplifier and I always get a B&W picture (with the better image quality from jpx72's mod).
Something I could add is that on the first attempt to mod it (with Kyuusaku's schematics), as there was not a clear model of transistor written, I just asked the electronics shop to give me a PNP transistor (5-15V) but they gave me an NPN ! (I noticed that after trying the mod).
Of course it didn't work so I redid it successfully after putting properly a 2N3906 I found on an old PC motherboard (while getting a B&W picture of course).
So after all, I'm guessing if this hasn't damaged something...
Well, starting to be to be discouraged, I just ordered an AV Famicom in order to fully enjoy playing at this mythic console. I'll keep trying to find a solution to get my old Famicom fully working anyway...
By the way, thanks to everybody involved into these mods and everything.
Try with the link http://www.briconsola.com/esp/p23.htm (http://www.briconsola.com/esp/p23.htm)
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=es&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.briconsola.com%2Fesp%2Fp23.htm (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=es&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.briconsola.com%2Fesp%2Fp23.htm)
(http://www.briconsola.com/esp/p23_archivos/image010.jpg)
He takes pin 1 and 2 together, but I connected it to the R and the L of the CPU to the sound to get Stereo effect. I proved it and it works. The problem is that I can´t get video signal in old TV, I don´t know the reason why.
Look also in http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=4713.0 (http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=4713.0)
Maybe this thread could be moved to the Technical & Repair Assistance category.
Moved.
I have problems with an AV modded Hong Kong Famicom showing a bad picture and sound effects seems to be a bit off.
There's way too much red as can be seen here:
(http://s16.postimage.org/x6okri0ed/PICT0805.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/auqry41a9/full/)
img upload (http://postimage.org/)
It's the version with the unlicensed Makko Toys RF-modulator (described here http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=4138.0):
(http://s17.postimage.org/9trv7jrrj/PICT0806.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ocz08ykwb/full/)
free image hosting (http://postimage.org/)
HVC-CPU-07:
(http://s9.postimage.org/aqhlyra0f/PICT0809.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5ru3k867f/full/)
img upload (http://postimage.org/)
Those black AV cables are tucked in through the slot that is normally used by the channel 1 and 2 switch on a normal RF-modulator. The red and white power switch cables also goes to this board:
(http://s11.postimage.org/7izjnwnv7/PICT0810.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/h3j6asd73/full/)
image hosting (http://postimage.org/)
Makko Toys with the Family Game logo:
(http://s11.postimage.org/3rbqczp3n/PICT0808.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
free image hosting (http://postimage.org/)
The AV cables are soldered directly to the underside of the two boards:
(http://s12.postimage.org/xpjqn4elp/PICT0815.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v87zfuup5/full/)
img upload (http://postimage.org/)
I've tested the AV cables with the "beep function" on my multimeter and they seem to be allright.
I'd just redo the entire mod and use what's outlined in this thread by Da_Bear and others.
2 P You have wrong level of video signal.
Post Merge: August 03, 2012, 04:22:32 pm
Another epic thread :)
So the problem is that they just soldered the AV cables directly to the boards without any components? I forgot to mention that this mod was already applied when I got the system. I haven't touched anything yet.
According to 133MHz newer TV sets might give up on video if the signal isn't good enough thus not showing a picture. That could explain why the picture randomly won't show up on my LCD. If I fix this mod that shouldn't be a problem anymore.
OK I read through this thread and that thread over here: http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=4713.285 and come to the following conclusions:
(All cables should be shielded and as short as possible to reduce noise.)
1) Wrap the PPU in copper tape and ground the copper to pin 20 on the PPU.
But how do you put copper tape on the underside? Do you have to desolder the PPU?
2) Build an AV amplifier.
This is the most confusing one as there are almost as many variants of the amplifier as there are tech savvy people. But the one by jpx72: http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod.htm seems good and this one http://www002.upp.so-net.ne.jp/jsrc/densi/fcav2.html too. This last one seems a bit more complicated than most and he doesn't seem to try to keep the cables to the amplifier short.
3) To get sound without noise add a 220uF electrolytic capacitor (volt doesn't seem to matter on the capacitor) between audio output (pin 46 on cartridge connector) and the audio output jack if it's not done in the amplifier schematic already.
4) If there still are jailbars try the following:
*Add three extra ceramic capacitors, the bigger the better. One on pin 22 and the other two on the power lines around the PPU and the CPU.
The +5V is pin 40 for both the PPU and the CPU as far as I understand.
*Put a 47uF ceramic capacitor between pins #22 and #20 on the PPU or put a 1000uF (ceramic?) capacitor between #20-#40
*Lift the video pin (pin 21) on the PPU.
That's about it. The AV mod sticky thread could use a summarized list like this. But is it correct? Anything to add?
That's why i don't like to release any information... People don't read, but ask questions...
READ STICKY THREAD. THERE IS EVERYTHING YOU NEED
Of course I read that sticky! And allot of other threads as well if I might add (or else I wouldn't understand much of it)! Maybe I wasn't clear enough but that sticky doesn't really summarize all this, does it? Also I'm sorry but I think the sticky doesn't really answer my questions. You don't have to if you don't want to but I'd be happy if someone with more knowledge than me could help and summarize the steps and we could eventually add it to the sticky thread. I don't think I'm the only one who is confused.
Quote from: P on August 04, 2012, 03:35:37 pm
Maybe I wasn't clear enough but that sticky doesn't really summarize all this, does it? Also I'm sorry but I think the sticky doesn't really answer my questions.
I wonder if next question will be "do i need to plug soldering iron into wall socket".....
1)it's obvious and described
with photos in sticky thread
2)answered in the sticky thread
3)sound? noise? thats something new. maybe you talikng about mic in second pad?
4a)check
4b)
READ STICKY THREAD AGAIN4c)check
I've seen that you have put down lots of time and contributed allot to this information and I must say good job on the sticky thread. It's something that has been missing from this forum. I just want to help make it more clear and improve it, so scratch that ironic attitude please.
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 04, 2012, 04:24:45 pm
1)it's obvious and described with photos in sticky thread
Yeah the pictures show pictures of desoldered chips from your famicom keyboard project but I would rather not desolder the PPU if it's possible but I guess it's not.
Quote
2)answered in the sticky thread
Point number 2 is a statement not a question.
Quote
3)sound? noise? that's something new. maybe you talking about mic in second pad?
No it was something I read in these discussions somewhere and I thought it wasn't covered in some amplifier schematics so I added it. But I guess I mixed up things. Scratch point number 3.
Quote
4a)check
4b)READ STICKY THREAD AGAIN
4c)check
Point number 4b Isn't mentioned in the sticky. It's something I read somewhere else or mixed it up somehow. I guess it's obsolete now. Scratch point number 4b.
Again these points are not questions but a summarizing of everything I learned here. But I kind of mixed some question into it to learn more. Sorry if my post was more confusing than useful, and thanks.
all good, all sorted.
Quote from: P on August 04, 2012, 02:16:19 pm
1) Wrap the PPU in copper tape and ground the copper to pin 20 on the PPU.
But how do you put copper tape on the underside? Do you have to desolder the PPU?
if you copper tape/foil is strong enough you can use a neddle and thread to push it on the underside. Desoldering is not necessary. I used foil and it works for me. Also don't forget about insulating insertion between PCB and copper foil.
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4713.0;attach=2029 pic
Thanks famifan it was something like this I was looking for. However I looked at my PPU again and it looks quite tight under there. Well I'll just have to give it a try. About insulation, yeah I kinda figured it out looking at those pictures but that's something that I think should be explained more in the sticky thread. Many people might not know why you have that stuff in the picture without an explanation.
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 04, 2012, 06:17:00 pm
all good, all sorted.
Yes thanks. I'm glad we can discuss this without having any childish flame wars.
Quote from: P on August 05, 2012, 03:20:02 am
About insulation, yeah I kinda figured it out looking at those pictures but that's something that I think should be explained more in the sticky thread. Many people might not know why you have that stuff in the picture without an explanation.
insulation is needed to prevent a junction/short circuit between copper foil and PCB's surface. Use any insertion you can get. Thin cardboard or strong paper works as well.
2
80sFREAK:Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 04, 2012, 03:04:26 pm
That's why i don't like to release any information... People don't read, but ask questions...
READ STICKY THREAD. THERE IS EVERYTHING YOU NEED
No there isn't. You haven't posted the mod itself, and it would be really helpful if you can choose the best amp per revision:
These are just some of the schematics available in this and other threads:
(http://www002.upp.so-net.ne.jp/jsrc/densi/fcav2-7.png)
(http://www.briconsola.com/esp/p23_archivos/image010.jpg)
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/famavmod.gif)
this last one is from my page and you suggest replacing the output cap with a smaller one:
(http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod/kyuusaku.gif)
And you have also sent me (in a PM) different instructions for rev07, which even included removing one component from board.
SO which should I choose? Is there a need for removing components from board?
1)Stop confusing people with irrelevant schematics there is absolutely no sence about value of components.
2)Do you understand word "rebuild"?
3)Do you understand phrase "i am after first one"?
4)I do remove components from PCB to reuse them - i do not fuck around $1 orders even with free shipping
5)Once you lifted pin 21 video amplifier components on PCB are useless
If you want some more explanations, it will be more about theory and more complaints "oh, it's to complicated, i wanna something more simple....." This is basics, which ANYONE MUST KNOW if want to do something with electronics.
Okay so:
1) that's why I have posted these here and not in that other topic you've created
2) yes, but if you mean rebuild the "exact same" video circuit as is the original (on board) you could have wrote that. Otherwise, I don't understand.
3) no, and I don't understand the whole part there"I'm after first diagram with 100R and 150R insted of 220R and 2k2" ..if you want us to rebuild the original, why do you change the resistor's value?
And also the next part: "In the video circuit you don't need to use 220uF separating capacitor. 22uF or 33uF is far enough." - now you're reffering to the schematics on my website? because there is no 220uF capacitor in your picture... Can you understand now why I am confused?
4) ah okay, now I understand. I don't order components, I am passing a nice store on my way home from work every day where I can buy almost everything for prices like 0,05€ per resistor/capacitor.
5) I know, but you haven't said a thing about lifting the pin 21 in your topic!!
Thanks for your answers, please don't take this as an assault on your person, I just don't understand and asking doesn't hurt...
Help! I unsoldering the PPU and I installed it on a support (such as photos of 80'Freak) and now I have a gray screen, or when an image full of pixels, but I sound that is corrupt.
My Famicom is dead?
2&3) Ok so now I am completely lost, but don't bother explaining, cause I don't think it will be productive... :(
5) No trolling, this forum is pretty much without troll, as you may have noticed, and I'm trying to keep it that way.
Post Merge: August 10, 2012, 04:55:29 am
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 10, 2012, 04:45:58 am
... but Sharp Twin as well.
Sorry missed that one.
Forget it.
Can you help me for my problem ?
I strongly agree with jpx on this. The sticky is not systematic at all and it assumes that the reader knows background details to the whole AV-mod discussion.
Quote from: jpx72 on August 10, 2012, 01:49:14 am
5) I know, but you haven't said a thing about lifting the pin 21 in your topic!!
Actually it is briefly mentioned in the sticky along with a pic, but it's totally out of place.
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 10, 2012, 04:45:58 am
[can you read next few words after "rebuild"? good. read'em again. complete phrase.
It says
QuoteTo minimize EMI in output video amplifier have to be rebuilt around pin 20 and shield of AV cable have to be connected there.
but that doesn't make much sense. Are we supposed to build the same thing again but from pin 20 this time? That doesn't make any sense to me.
Also it's not mentioned that you desolder the 2SA937 transistor from point Q1 on the board and reuses it in your amplifier. You also refer to allot of things outside the thread like jpx mentioned that is never explained in the sticky.
No matter how much knowledge you have about electronics it doesn't matter if you don't specify everything systematically. What's the point of a sticky if it requires you to know everything that's been discussed already instead of just summarizing it?
I correctly desolder the PPU, there is no damage, no false contacts. To describe the problem, I have a gray image, sound, but the sound is weird (music's boot of FDS is corrupt )
Grey picture could be due to bad contacts with the cartridge I think. About sound, I think you have to post pictures of PCB.
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 10, 2012, 05:29:55 am
Did you read next phrase? You should try to read complete text
The next phrase seems to be a separate step but it's almost impossible to know because you haven't made clear borders between the steps.
Quotebelow original, existing on PCB's schematics.
This doesn't make any sense at all. Are we supposed to use schematics for the amplifier from elsewhere? If so why isn't it mentioned?
Quotethis is not critical
OK you do have a point there.
QuoteYou also refer to allot of things outside the thread like jpx mentioned that is never explained in the sticky.
Quotefor example?
For example you are randomly referring to things about grounding pin 22 with a capacitor. And later you say that you don't need to use a 220uF separating capacitor but a 22uF or 33uF is enough in the "video circuit". But there's no explanation where this information comes from.
Quotesound circuits have nothing to do with PPU
I know that. It would be good for you if you start reading other peoples posts properly before telling people to read yours.
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 10, 2012, 06:09:57 am
should i number steps?
Yes that would be one way to do it. And all steps should be in order. Mandatory steps first and then optional steps if any.
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 10, 2012, 06:09:57 am
can you count up to three? can you see diagrams on sketch above? do you understand phrase "i am after first one with xxx instead of yyy"?
Sorry but "i am after first one with xxx instead of yyy" just isn't very grammatical. Do you just mean that you would try to build the first amplifier in the schematics but with different values of two of the resistors?
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 10, 2012, 06:09:57 am
not sure if you kidding, trolling or just stupid.... have you seen first sketch? did you read text after?
I guess I'm just stupid then... Yes I read it many times now. This isn't going anywhere...
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 10, 2012, 06:09:57 am
take is axiom otherwise it will become "why do you use resistor, not capacitor?"
Don't be silly.
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 10, 2012, 06:09:57 am
it was actually reply not to you, but previous guy.
OK got it.
No this is just a big waste of time for me and for anyone reading this discussion so I'm ending it here.
Quote from: famiav on August 10, 2012, 05:01:11 am
Can you help me for my problem ?
Inspect the soldering of the PPU very carefully, I would suspect that you either have two pins bridged or you may have killed a trace when desoldering. If you don't see anything, get a PPU pinout diagram, a multimeter, and start probing each pin for continuity. The chances of killing the PPU is low, but the chance of killing a trace can be high, especially if heat was applied for too long in the desoldering process. Been there, done that.
I will try what you told me to do. But I can not find a diagram ...
I do think that this is the problem, because when I press the PPU with my finger, I have a picture on the TV (yes, disgusting, but I have a picture!)
Found an interesting PDF about the NES, you have the PPU pinout there too:
http://www.cs.uiuc.edu/homes/luddy/PROCESSORS/Nintendo.pdf
Post Merge: August 10, 2012, 11:57:55 pm
Quote from: 80sFREAK on August 10, 2012, 06:09:57 am
Quote from: jpx72 on August 09, 2012, 10:34:46 pm
And you have also sent me (in a PM) different instructions for rev07, which even included removing one component from board.
SO which should I choose? Is there a need for removing components from board?
The question was a bit different, isn't it? You asked me, how to reduce brightness. Does it worked?
Just last thing to this flamewar :) No I was reffering to the first PM from me to you about an AV mod. You've sent me a photo of how it should be done.
(I asked you about the brightness just recently, and yes, it worked!)
Anyway just leave this war, I think I have my answers and I will make a tutorial for newbies on my webpage, just after I test it on my famicoms. With all credits to you of course and links to your topic. It will take a while :)
Sorry I never intended it to be a flame war I tried to squeeze out some information but it didn't work so well. Sorry famiav to make your request drown in a pointless discussion.
Here is Xious' archive of Famicom schematics he gathered from various Japanese sites: http://atariusa.com/Famicom_Schematics/
There is one for the PPU there.
Hi, I have A/V Famicom with PlayChoise 10 chip and now I like to solder RGB cable to my console. So can you tell me the best cable, which I solder to famicom and cable at the other end would have a scart.
And what is good quality SCART to Component converter?
XRGB 3 is very expensive and I think if something cheaper converter make same quality?