Attention to all Famicom Disk System owners!
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/uncle-kun.jpg)
Yes, that's right! Don't ask what FW can do for you, ask what YOU can do for FW! :P
Apparently you can tell if a FDS drive contains a 7201 chip just by looking at the writing on the front, over the disk access LED:
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/fds-led.JPG)
The problem is, my FDS units came swapped so I don't know which is which, and also we need a higher sample size to assure that this is a reliable identification method.
So, I'm going to teach you how to check out if your FDS drive contains the good 7201 chip.
Step 1:
- Remove the six screws on the bottom of the FDS drive
- Flip the drive over and remove the top cover
- Remove the two screws holding the battery compartment and set it apart
Now you should have something like this:
This is a 7201 drive. Notice the smaller power board (the green board near the power and RAM cart inputs).
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3400/3189104371_1ed3ec35e8.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3400/3189104371_1ed3ec35e8_b.jpg)
And this is a 3206 drive. The power board is bigger because of the added write-blocking circuitry:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3080/3189946652_d0fd429044.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3080/3189946652_d0fd429044_b.jpg)
Step 2:Now we're going to check the drive itself. You don't need to disassemble it to check out the chip that it contains. Just take a look at the drive mechanism, preferably under a bright light, and look through the hole marked in the picture (click it for a more general view of the area):
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3357/3189947008_488532d273_o.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3325/3189947602_a5d40aba45_o.jpg)
You may need to tilt the drive slightly, but you should be able to see what's the chip inside.
FD7201P = Good
FD3206P = Bad
A 7201 drive should come with a 'small' power board and a 3206 drive should come with a 'large' power board. If yours doesn't match (a 7201 drive with a large power board or vice versa) your FDS has been tampered with before, probably its drive mechanism or power board was replaced at some point in time.
This is the information needed:
- Japanese writing on the front, over the LED
- Power board size
- Chip present in drive mechanism
So, get your screwdrivers and post your findings! ;)
Quote from: 133MHz on January 11, 2009, 06:07:37 pm
FD7201P = Good
FD3206P = Bad
Oh God, what's the performance and/or drive difference...? :(
For playing games, absolutely nothing.
For rewriting disks, the 7201 drive will rewrite disks out of the box, the 3206 drive will require modification.
...
How do you rewrite disks with a 7201?
Carefully. It's a complicated thing :P
And 133Mhz is goign to tell us all how? :D
Yes sir. Now get your screwdrivers and crack those FDSes open!
He's working on it, so please everybody check their drives and answer him.
I'll check mine as soon as I have the time to and can identify the box it is in. :)
I'll check mine....
As soon as I get one xD!!
Auction for FDS, Family Robot, Famicom, games...ends in ONE HOUR...
Current highest bid.. $142.50 8)
Quote from: 133MHz on January 11, 2009, 06:25:18 pm
Yes sir. Now get your screwdrivers and crack those FDSes open!
I know how to write disks and all that fdsloader stuff, but I have absolutely no idea how to modify my 3206 drive, so I'm eagerly waiting for your tutorial! ;D
Alright, here are my stats:
1. lots of japanese writing on led cover (left pic in 133mhz's description)
2. large power board
3. FD7201P
So apparently my fds has been tampered with prior to my ownership of it. I'm not surprised as about half of the screws holding it together were spun when I received the unit. I had just assumed it was from drive belt error evaluation and/or adjustment. heh. The serial on the bottom of the console says D1072158. Not sure if that matters or not.
full "LAMP" "EJECT BUTTON" japanese text
large circuitry
FD7201P chip
ordered used from Japangamestock and never had any disk errors in the little over a year I've used several disks on it.
weird, does this mean it's been modified?
edit: also, the inner battery compartment screws seemed a little stuck in their position, as if they'd never been removed, know what I mean? ah, I'm probably just noticing things that aren't there...
serial D1057037
all text
large board
7201
#2,013,198
all text
large board
3206
#845,779
It might be helpful for people to edit their posts to include their disk drive's manufacturing number. For some reason, my 3206 has a smaller disk drive number than the 7201, which I didn't expect.
I assume there would be similar info on the Twin Famicom. Do you want this, too? I don't own a standalone FDS.
I've already told you, but for the record, I have a FD3206P chipset with a FD7201 disk drive. Serial # D1214260. hope this helps!
This is getting weird :o
The large power board contains write-blocking circuitry, while the small power board does not. That means a small power board would be paired with a 7201 drive, right? But I'm seeing MASSIVE quantities of 7201 drives with large power boards! Those drives aren't able to write disks even if the drive is a 7201, because the large board disconnects the write line if it detects that you're trying to rewrite the whole disk. Also if you take the power board out, you'll see that the small one is a FMD-POWER-02 and the large one is a FMD-POWER-04 or 05. That means the larger power boards are a later revision.
Either Nintendo got sneaky and started sticking the newer power boards on older 7201 drives, or everybody's FDSes have been previously repaired or something. This is getting really confusing ???. Also it seems like the writing over the power LED doesn't mean anything :'(.
FUK i have a 3206 drive...
Popi, what about the power board? :)
Quote from: 133MHz on January 11, 2009, 08:04:23 pm
Popi, what about the power board? :)
i dunno
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh174/popibros1/100_2297.jpg)
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh174/popibros1/100_2295.jpg)
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh174/popibros1/100_2295.jpg)
Large power board, my friend. First drive that makes sense :-\
Alrighty, the results are in.
1. Lots of text
2. Large board
3. FD7201P
Quote from: 133MHz on January 11, 2009, 08:14:12 pm
Large power board, my friend. First drive that makes sense :-\
I think mine's exactly the same ;D
Im pretty sure mine is a 7201. Ill check when I get home.
Please!, Please! put an instruction manual or video together on how to copy disks. Ive been wanting to try this for a really long time.
It's being worked on. Check out this topic (http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=2504.0) in the meantime. :)
Maybe this doesn't truly tell you which version of the Famicom Disk System you have. I thought that one second after you turn on the famicom with the disk system plugged in you can hold down some buttons on player 2 controller and it would tell you which chip you had inside?
Instructions:
http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/RAM_Diagnostic_and_Version_Test.htm (http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/RAM_Diagnostic_and_Version_Test.htm)
I have two different RAM adapters (one with a flat surface and the other with a textured one, and also different PCB layouts inside) and both say DEV NO. 2
And it seems that it has nothing to do with the disk drive itself, because the RAM adapter on its own reports that number, without the disk drive plugged in.
In conclusion, the self test is reporting a chip inside the RAM adapter, nothing on the disk drive itself.
IMPORTANT DISCOVERY!
Having a 7201 drive chip is only half the battle! There are two write lockout systems inside any given FDS drive: the 3206 chip AND the large power board. The large power board contains a bunch of logic designed to thwart disk writing, so even if you own a 7201 FDS drive, you won't be able to rewrite disks if your power board is large (on a side note, I think this is one of the possible causes of people with 7201 FDSes building a FDSLoadr cable and not being able to rewrite a single disk - thus giving FDSLoadr a bad fame, that and the incorrect pinout :P).
Good news: I've successfully disabled the write lockout on one of the large power boards, and the mod is really simple! ;D ;D ;D
But again, Disk-Kun needs your help!
I've been able to mod the FMD-POWER-04 board, but there are more revisions of this dreaded, copy-protected board, and I can't mod what I don't have access to! ::)
So, calling all large power board FDS owners, if you feel comfortable with taking apart your FDS, please remove the power board from the FDS casing and check the revision number, it should be near the power input in the format FMD-POWER-XX, where XX is a number. If yours is NOT an FMD-POWER-04, please send me or post high resolution pictures of both sides of the board, so I can come up with a write-lockout modification for them ;).
For ease of identification, I'll post pictures of both boards below:
If your board looks like this (rectangular), no need to worry. Your power board doesn't contain copy protection circuitry built in. Consider yourself lucky :).
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3468/3192562627_73b1e94193.jpg)
Now, if your board looks like this (larger than the first one, with an odd shape), your power board is copy protected. Please follow the steps mentioned above :).
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3451/3193407762_00af2450c5.jpg)
And remember...
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/uncle-kun.jpg)
Ok, I checked and I have the FMD POWER-04. So to update my list, this is what I have:
1. Lots of text on led cover (left pic in 133mhz's description)
2. Large power board model FMD POWER-04
3. FD7201P chip
4. Serial # D1072158
Do Twins even have 7201 chips? Since they were made in a later time, it doesn't seem they would.
05 -- HERE (http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/SANY0318.jpg) and HERE (http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/SANY0319.jpg).
Sorry, looks like I've got an FMD POWER-04 board.
Quote from: JC on January 12, 2009, 08:33:43 pm
05 -- HERE (http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/SANY0318.jpg) and HERE (http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/SANY0319.jpg).
Thanks JC!
I've already analyzed your pics and came up with a mod for the FMD-POWER-05!
In fact that board contains
more copy-protection than the FMD-POWER-04 (it also intercepts the /MOTOR ON signal), which makes the mod slightly more difficult.
How complicated are these mods exactly?
04 board: Remove a jumper, solder a wire.
05 board: Remove two jumpers, cut two traces, solder two wires.
Good deal!
**EDIT**
Further probing of my Famicom Disk System has revealed that it smells like cigars which I happen to find very appealing. I love my Famicom Disk System!
*gives the camera a thumbs up and a smile*
FMD-POWER-04
So, presumably 01 and 02 are the small board. What's 03? 04 and 05 are the large board. Is there anything higher -- 06?
We shall find out ;).
Here's mine. I'm posting this here to test putting an image up since I haven't done it in a while.
http://img65.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0029qn2.jpg
(http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/6231/img0029qn2.th.jpg) (http://img65.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0029qn2.jpg)
I just got around to doing this. The screwdriver I keep handy is too fat to fit down into the FDS's screw holes, and I've been too damn lazy to get my other kit out of the car :D
However, mine has:
1. Full warning text above access light
2. Smaller power board
3. 7201 chip
Mine has the full warning text, but I'm not sure if it's a 7201 or not.
Quote from: nintendodork on January 12, 2009, 07:58:40 pm
Do Twins even have 7201 chips? Since they were made in a later time, it doesn't seem they would.
My Black model Sharp twin does have a 7201 chip (the chip itself has a funny writing logo figure stamped on it)....
Just checked mine-it's a FD3206P and has a large power board.
FFFFFFFF
My specs:
1. Full text
2. FD3206P
3. Large power board
Here's mine:
Full text on front LED
FD7201P drive chip
Large FMD POWER-05 board
I hope Im' not too late to help out
heres a pic of my fds inside
I thought that was your Famicom :-\
sorry not having a good day
Hey guys.. I just picked up a FDS today. As I expected it needs a new drive belt.
Fortunately its a 7201 with the old power board, but it appears to have an early version of copy protection included in a daughter card. Another feature is it is lacking the text near the drive light telling you not to eject the disk while its reading. The case of the FDS is different than my other FDS. It is smooth and not textured. I'm posting some pictures to let you know about another type of power board that hasn't been discussed.
Also the Floppy drive has a jumper wire that appears to be added by Nintendo.. Possibly for copy protection reasons?
One more photo :P
That is indeed a copy protection/write lockout daughterboard. You should be able to remove it with soldering equipment and the FDS should work fine. As for the jumper wire, it could be a design error.
Hi 133Mhz
Thanks for your quick reply!
Removing this daughter card shouldn't be difficult.
I was wondering if you have gotten FDSLoader to work successfully to write games to the disks. I have read on many forums that it just doesn't work no matter what. I have been told the only way to make FDS disks is with a game doctor and a pc cable for it. I'm hoping that it can be done with just FDSLoader.
Hello Everybody!
I got a FDS a couple a months ago as I was in Akihabara.
Mine has got the following:
- Lots of letters in the front
- A big power board, but without a daughter board
- A 7201P chip
I got also a very cheap Famicom, but I think it's not operational. I'm trying to run the disk system on a famiclone that comes with the japanese cartridge slot.
Is it kind of unpolite to ask where to get images of FDS games? I'm waiting for my Akumaju Dracula disk to arrive, and just in case I'd like at least to play it in an emulator.
Any info will be appreciated. ;D
Regards!
Rob
Edit:
I attached the FDS to the famiclone and it works! That's pretty good news, hehehe
Now for some more questions, Would it be possible to either attach the FDS drive to a PC or tu change the FDS drive for a standard 3.5" drive? That would make life much easier, don't you think?
Quote from: robcfg on May 18, 2009, 03:43:59 pm
Would it be possible to either attach the FDS drive to a PC
Possible, but won't make your life much easier.
Quote from: robcfg on May 18, 2009, 03:43:59 pm
or to change the FDS drive for a standard 3.5" drive
Not possible without extensive reverse engineering and microcontrollers.
Quote from: 133MHz on May 18, 2009, 04:07:59 pm
Quote from: robcfg on May 18, 2009, 03:43:59 pm
Would it be possible to either attach the FDS drive to a PC
Possible, but won't make your life much easier.
Quote from: robcfg on May 18, 2009, 03:43:59 pm
or to change the FDS drive for a standard 3.5" drive
Not possible without extensive reverse engineering and microcontrollers.
Well, then I think I'll be trying the FDSLoader cable to do the images of the games. Anyway, I hope you find useful the info of my FDS.
Here's the info on mine:
1. all text
2. large power board
3. 3206
4. serial D1839578
did have service done on it 2007-03-22
Welcome to FW; You may have noticed that this thread is rather old, but thank you for supplying that information. Your drive has a very weird configuration, just so that you know. Drives under ser# 2m should have a R1-R3 power board with the possibility of what I refer to as R2B, which used old-stock R2 power boards with an add-on daughter-board to block write ability. This version looks like this R2 Board with Daughter-Card (http://famicomworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/P6100441-465x348.jpg)
You can read here for more information on the different boards here (http://famicomworld.com/workshop/tech/fds-power-board-modifications/).
Many times, when drives were repaired by sloppy techs, the cases were swapped around, and also when work was done by Nintendo or a serviceman back when these were still being sold, they often did a fast swap of the guts to get you a working product as quickly as possible. this lead to many drive parts being incorrectly synchronized with their corresponding serial numbers. Your drive should have an early mechanism, a 7201P controller board and a R02 or R03 power board, or at least, that is the factory configuration for that serial number (1.8M)...