This is a F.A.Q. for any Famicom owner, that is intended to cover what AC-Adapters (Power Supply Units, or PSU) can be used both safely and reliably, as well as general AC and DC power-related questions. I will be expanding this as time permits. Please reply with any related questions not covered in this FAQ and i will add and provide answers to them as appropriate to this document.
Definitions:
AC (Alternating Current): The electricity form that exists in wall outlets around the world. The exact frequency and voltage will vary from country to country, which I will cover later.
DC (Direct Current): This is the form of electricity used by most electronic devices that contain integrated circuits, like the Famicom.
AC Adapter: This is the power supply unit (PSU) that you connect to your Famicom and then to the wall for power. It transforms AC to DC for electronic devices.
Stepdown Transformer: This type of converter lowers the voltage of electronic current, but does not change it from AC to DC or vice versa.
Terms used on AC Adapters:
Input Voltage: This is the voltage that the AC Adapter expects to receive into itself, that it will transform to DC current. it is measured in volts (V) or (VAC) and cycles (Hz). This is often expressed as a range, such as 110-120VAC and 50-60Hz.
Output Voltage: This is the electrical current measurements for the output voltage; the power that the AC Adapter is conducting to your Famicom. it is expressed in Volts (V) or (VDC) and Ampere (Amp) or (A).
Ampere are often divided into units of one-thousand (1,000th of One Ampere). These are called milliamps (mA) or (mAmp). Remember that there are 1,000 mA to 1A, so 500mA is 1/2 of 1A (0.5A)!
Polarity: The connector that attaches to your Famicom has a positive and negative terminal: The little barrel is charged one way inside, and the other on the outside; this is required for the proper flow of current. The direction of charge is expressed with either Centre-Pin Negative or Centre-Pin Positive, or illustrated thusly:
(-)------------(o------------(+) --- Centre Pin Positive
or
(+)------------(o------------(-) --- Centre Pin Nevative
The (o is a representation of the central pin (or core) of the barrel, where the line touches the circle or dot. Thus, ( is the outer portion of the barrel, and o is the inner portion of the barrel.
It is important to understand and be able to read these definitions when using an AC-Adapter.
Note: The original NES PSU has an output voltage of 9VAC! This means that it outputs Alternating Current, not Direct Current and will damage your Famicom!
Watts (W) are an expression of joules of electricity per second. The conversion of Amps to Watts at fixed voltage is easily found with this equation: Watts = Amps * Volts (thus, 1 Amp * 100 Volts = 100 Watts). The actual equation, for those interested is P = I x V.
Barrel Connector: This is the 'tip' of the AC-Adapter; the part that plus into your Famicom. It has two measurements: The outer diameter (of the round, metal shell) and the inner diameter (of the hole / centre pin). You can measure this with a set of calipers (or a micrometer, etc.) if you are unsure of its size, and you can buy barrel connectors with fixed measurements, correct to all FC models, from most electronic suppliers.
******Questions & Answers******
Q1: Can I use a normal NES AC-Adapter / Power Supply on my Famicom?
A1: No, the factory (Nintendo-made) NES PSU is not an AC Adapter! It is an AC stepdown transformer and outputs alternating current that will seriously damage your Famicom.
Q2: What type of Power Supply Unit / AC Adapter should (or can) I use with my Famicom?
A2:The specific and original AC Adapter for the Famicom and the Super Famicom has the following specifications:
Input: 100VAC 50-60Hz
Output: 10VDC 850mA
Polarity: Centre Pin Negative
(+)------------(o------------(-)
Barrel Size: Outer Diameter 5.5mm; Inner Diameter 2.1mm
The Sharp Twin Famicom AC-Adapter is different. Its specifications are:
Input: 100VAC 50-60Hz
Output: 7.6VDC 1250mA (1.25A)
Polarity: Centre Pin Positive
(-)------------(o------------(+)
Barrel Size: Outer Diameter 5.5mm; Inner Diameter 2.5mm
The Famicom Disk System AC-Adapter has the following specifications:
Input: 100VAC 50-60Hz
Output: 9VDC 400mA
Polarity: Centre Pin Negative
(+)------------(o------------(-)
Barrel Size: Outer Diameter 5.5mm; Inner Diameter 2.0mm*
*Most 9VDC universal AC-Adapters will work in its place, as it can accept the same tip as the Famicom and the MegaDrive, etc. The factory tip is slightly different (and red!) to prevent accidentally using it on the Famicom.
If you live outside Japan, what all you need to remember is the Output Voltage and Polarity, as you can use any AC-Adapter with the same output ratings (or very similar) and the same type of tip and polarity.
The Famicom has some leeway in the voltage that it can safely accept. We call this the tolerance.
You can use a power supply that varies as follows:
Voltage Output: Minimum 9VDC Maximum 11VDC
Ampere Output: Minimum 700mA, Maximum: -Unlimited-
Polarity: Centre-Pin Negative (+)------------(o------------(-)
Ampere Notes: The FC will draw upon demand, so you can pretty much go as high as you need. You need to worry about covering the minimum rating here, and I suggest an 800mA minimum if you plan to use games with lots of extra memory or if you plan to use external controllers, etc. I would not try to use the 3D glasses, for example, without the full 850mA. Using less won't damage your hardware, but it may damage your PSU. Others may suggest more or less, but much more will cause the system to overheat, as will be explained below.
Q3: What AC Adapters (other than the original) that I can commonly buy are compatible?
A3: The Famicom will run from a Sega MegaDrive/Genesis (Type-1) AC Adapter and the Sega Master System/SG-3000 AC Adapter, from your local area, with no need for a step-down transformer. (e.g., a USA AC-Adapter for people in the USA, or a European AC-Adapter for people in Europe, or a Brazillian AC-Adapter for people in Brazil, etc.).
Local AC-Adapters (designed to run on your local voltage specifications) of this type do not need a step-down transformer, as they are (after all) designed to be used locally. If you use one fro out of your area (such as a MegaDrive AC_Adapter from Japan, when you live in the U.K., then you will need an appropriate step-down transformer to convert the current, as normal.)
If in doubt, check the label on the AC-Adapter and look for its Input Voltage, then compare that to what is used in your locality (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country).
You may also find aftermarket power supply units meant for those systems, or power supplies meant to be used on the four big consoles: The NES/SNES/Genesis/Mastersystem. These usually come with an assortment of configurable tips, and because they support all four systems (not merely the NES), they output DC current. (The NES can run on DC currrent too, but the stock Nintendo NES PSU outputs AC.) In fact, some aftermarket NES PSUs are DC-output... Just be sure to read the markings!
The PSU from the NEC PC-Engine/Turbographx-16 may also work.
You can also purchase an AC-Adapter that has variable settings: On these, you select the output voltage by some means, and the adapter has a fixed amperage rating. Look carefully at the output amperage when buying one, as they are often sold rated by maximum wattage, which is not very meaningful. Be sure to select one only if one of its settings is 9VDC or 10VDC out!
These usually have a switch (or a changeable tip) with which you set the polarity. Be doubly-sure you do so correctly, and that you understand how to use the product...
Q4 What about Japanese AC Adapters? They use a different input voltage than anything in my locale, so can I use them in my country?
A4: if you want to use an original PSU from Japan outside of Japan, you should buy a step-down transformer. This device converts your local AC power to that of another country. What you want is to convert whatever your local standard is to the Japan standard of 100VAC @ 50/60Hz. Some stores may call these voltage adapters, or voltage transformers, or something similar.
From the USA, you need to convert from 110~120VAC @ 60Hz to 100VAC @ 50/60Hz. I use this model (http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-1000J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4SVU), which is easy to buy in Amazon. I find that the VCT brand is extremely reliable, very affordable, and smartly designed. It has a pass-through port for local devices, and the 100VAC port for Japanese devices. This means that you can use both USA and Japan devices without losing an outlet.
You can also attach a splitter to it so that you may run multiple systems or devices from the transformer. VCT makes models ranging from around 250W to 2,000W or higher. I suggest the 500W model, or the 1,000W model if you want to run many systems, monitors or televisions from one transformer. Your Famicom alone draws about 8.5W at maximum demand1. (Double this to 17W1 with the FDS attachment.) Even with the FDS, you have an additional 483W of energy to use, so you can safely use even more systems on the 500W transformer!
If you add an old CR TV or monitor to this, deduce 100W; a small 14" to 15" CRT (such as a Commodore 1702) will use around 40W to 60W at maximum demand. Larger CRT displays may use as much as 100W, so i suggest that value as a precaution. Large CRTs, over 20", could use 150W or more as well: The actual wattage rating should be on the manufacturer's labels or markings, somewhere on the back of the unit.
Using a 100VAC AC-Adapter on 110-120VAC current (the USA standard, which we average to ~115VAC) may damage it over time. This can cause it to overheat, and can cause other internal damage to the AC-Adapter (for a more complex explanation, please read the replies in this thread), especially on newer aftermarket AC-Adapters, and may also be harmful to your system. Using a power strip (i.e. 'surge protector') does not help, in any way whatever. (It does not change the voltage on your electrical line!)
In short: Either use an AC-Adapter designed for local current, or get a step-down transformer. Otherwise, you risk trashing your hardware, or other problems that you may rather avoid.
I you live in Europe (or South America, or Asia, etc.), you will want to first check your local power standard. For example, in the UK, you will have 220-240VAC (~230VAC) @ 50Hz, and you should either buy a step-down transformer to convert directly from your standard to Japan's 100VAC @ 50-60Hz, or you can be sly and buy the USA-->Japan step-down transformer, and a step-down transformer to convert your local power to the USA 110~120VAC @ 60Hz standard. This may be easier than finding a transformer to convert your local AC current to the Japanese standard, an it will allow you to use USA devices as well.
You can, of course, always use an AC_Adapter designed for your country, as usual. If you are in Wales and own a Mastersystem, for example, you can use its AC-Adapter, or any AC-Adapter with the correct output voltage and amperage ratings.
You can use this chart (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country) to deduce your local rating.
Footnotes:
1I need to verify that this is completely accurate. In theory, 8.5W is the maximum demand that can be put on the stock Famicom power supply; however the actual AC Adapter should draw more from the AC source, as it is not perfectly efficient. I suggest that it draws as little as 2x the specified amount, and that you should apply this as a safety margin. I apply a 10x margin whenever possible. The FDS stock PSU is smaller and usually has a tiny demand, but often a 10V 850mA PSU is used on the system, rather than the legitimate red-tipped PSU, so the calculation is based on the same rating as the FC PSU.
Nice article.
But are you sure about the "Famicom alone draws about 85W"?
I always thought it used only 4W. Or do I mix something up here?
There is a difference between the wattage of the Famicom (internally) and the FC AC-Adapter... It should be 8.5, and even then, I could be mistaken as to the exact wattage demand, as I don't know off-hand if the amperage demand the AC-Adapter has on the AC source is less than its output amperage. The FC draws 4.25W from the 7805 (at full/maximum demand), and the output power of the factory AC adapter is 8.5W (again, this is the maximum demand possible). Usually, the values will be less.
If someone wants to measure the amperage demand that a stock AC adapter places on an actual 100VAC line, and finds me in error, then I can correct the FAQ. It's here both to be correct and to be useful, thus I'd rather overestimate for safety.
Additionally, I will field any questions that people wish to ask in this thread, so if there is anything you think I should add to the FAQ, post about it and I.ll add it to the top. :bomb:
I wonder about this:
Voltage Output: Minimum 9VDC Maximum 11VDC
I have heard people use both more and less... it was on the NES, but still? I do know people use 12 Volt adapter safely for it. Internally it uses 5V, so shouldn't any adapter over 5V be okay?
I'm not sure if you mentioned stablizied power supply in the FAQ. As far as I know, the adapter doesn't have to be stabilized (i e use a cheap one).
Edit: though I just found this article now: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071012223554AAt543O It could explain a previous problem I've had. :D
If there isn't enough wattage on the power supply, it may overheat, right? Still, I think 650 mA is safe.
Here is an article about measurements of power consumption by the way: http://nes-101.wikispaces.com/Power+Research
Then more you have Voltage output, then more you will dissipate on 7805 regulator. According to datasheet 15 is maximum and at this voltage 7805 will not work stable and easily overheated. Bottom voltage is drop voltage of 7805(2V) plus some more on pulses of DC. Yes 1000uF can not give you ideally "flat" voltage, but you can not increase it - no profit, but heating coils of transformer and bridge. So... minimum voltage is around 7.5V with load, ah, also keep in mind your power company - how stable voltage in wall socket. If tolerance about 5-7%, then you need exactly 8V minimum.
Quote from: fredJ on November 24, 2011, 05:02:33 am
I wonder about this:
Voltage Output: Minimum 9VDC Maximum 11VDC
I have heard people use both more and less... it was on the NES, but still? I do know people use 12 Volt adapter safely for it. Internally it uses 5V, so shouldn't any adapter over 5V be okay?
This is what I deem the
safe zone: If you drop much below 9VDC, you enter, as mentioned, an uncertain area regarding power fluctuation; 8VDC is acceptable, but not particularly what I'd deem wise; 7.5~7.6DVC is possible as well, however the frequency of such a PSU that you will find in the wild, that has the correct amperage and the correct barrel connector (with appropriate polarity) is essentially zero.
Going over 11VDC increases the level of heat generated by the 7805, and as heat is a byproduct of entropy, that boils down (pun intended) to lessening the lifespan of the 7805. You also risk thermal overload of other components, although the chance is slight, as you apply more voltage, as heat spreads uniformly, and the 7805 is not fully isolated. You should also keep in mind that the FC, in addition to 5VDC internal, has direct
unregulated voltage as well, and this expects to be 9~10VDC.
Quote
I'm not sure if you mentioned stablizied power supply in the FAQ. As far as I know, the adapter doesn't have to be stabilized (i e use a cheap one).
Edit: though I just found this article now: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071012223554AAt543O It could explain a previous problem I've had. :D
If there isn't enough wattage on the power supply, it may overheat, right? Still, I think 650 mA is safe.
A regulated PSU will supply cleaner, consistent current, which equates to less noise, and using a non-regulated PSU will affect some components, such as the PPU. (This can affect your video quality, as an important example.)
Insofar as lowering your PSU amperage, it is possible to drop to 500mA, but I would not by any means suggest or advise it, and anything that is ill-advised doesn't belong in the body of a FAQ. If you run a system with a 650mA PSU, and try to run external devices (such as the 3-D system, which draws ample amperage, and has a pass-through for a second set of glasses), or other external controllers, or games with additional CHR-RAM, etc. then your load will exceed the maximum demand on your AC adapter, causing thermal overload.
Have you ever seen a PSU literally
split apart and billow out black smoke? I have; in fact, I recently saw that happen when using a 12VDC compressor on a 110VAC-->12VDC adapter that didn't supply enough current. It (the AC adapter) actually split apart and burst aflame. You can't have too high a maximum amperage demand rating for this application, but too low of a demand is dangerous, both in terms of damaging equipment, and as a
fire hazard.
Imagine leaving the system on and going out for a cuppa only to come back home to a charcoal flat. That's not what we want to advise here. ...
Thus. no, you really do need the correct amperage (which is not identical to wattage) and I would not vary the voltage outside of 10% of design specification, which is a normal tolerance for many consumer-electronics systems.
Quote
Here is an article about measurements of power consumption by the way: http://nes-101.wikispaces.com/Power+Research
My FAQ is given to supply safe and accurate information. People will do what they wish, but I want to ensure that they don't destroy their equipment or have any other, grander problems arise from the information therein. Hopefully this clears up any questions you may have on why I gave that specific range of numbers.
I don't recall off-hand which (if any) attachments or devices use the unregulated voltage, but assuming that any exist, it would be even more important to stay within a certain threshold. Anyone that knows of something that uses this FC capacity should post about it in this thread so that it is directly referenced (pretty-please). :bomb:
Now my question is if I use the Sega Genesis Type-1 Adapter will I also need a stepdown adapter still or do I only need a stepdown converter if using a Japanese AC adapter?
Isn't it true that Famicom AC adapters are built for the Japanese standard, which was 100V 50/60? The eastern half of Japan does indeed use 50Hz but the west (where I live) uses 60, just like the US. I think since the US standard is 120V 60, you could safely use an original Japanese Famicom AC adapter in the states, though your machine would run a little hotter.
(I've talked to several friends who had returned and safely used small appliances with much higher wattage draws such as toaster ovens and denki pots with no problems.)
Running an AC Adapter designed for 100VAC on 110VAC will, over time, damage the AC Adapter, at the least: It is not safe for the hardware. They are however, 50/60Hz. :bomb:
P.S. I updated the 50/60hz issue: I had specified the Japan current as 50-60Hz at one point in the F.A.Q., but earlier I only noted it as '50Hz'... It is now clarified, and I did some clean-ups, added additional information preemptively, as well as adding information regarding another question (i.e. clarifications) that I was recently asked.
Good work on the FAQ thus far. I don't think I've said "thank you" yet ;D
I've been meaning to post the specs from my PC-Engine adapter, as you mention they "may also work". They're not 100% the same, but may be close enough.
No worries; you are quite welcome. I thin this has saved the forum from the normal PSU questions assault, as FW was averaging at about one question per 3-4 days for a while, most of them the same or very similar in nature. I think I'm hard-pressed to come up with any more questions to answer, but I expanded it a bit today, clearing up a few matters, and adding the information to cover the 'local Genesis MK-1' question that I answered in another thread in the last day or three.
I'll continue to expand it as is needed to fit the demand of questions, even the esoteric ones. Why not, right?
My reason for the wording the the PCE/TG16 AC-Adapter is due to its lower amperage. I think that it may overheat, or fail entirely, if you try to run it on a system that carries any burden, such as the 3-D system (or two of them), additional controllers, of hardware-heavy games. IIRC, it is 650mA or 700mA maximum demand, which is 150mA to 200mA short of the maximum demand of a factory PSU.
Sure, on a basic system it will be fine, but I wouldn't run one on my system, which has a 3-D system and/or an external controllers on it much of the time, plus a PowerPak, which draws a deal of current for its support hardware. :bomb:
Re : Japanese Famicom PSU on US power
The PSU is 100V to roughly 10V a 10:1 ratio, if you put 115V through it you will get 11.5V. Although the output voltage under load is going to lower. The Famicom PSU is also unregulated. Unregulated means if you do not draw a certain current from the PSU then the voltage will go up, measure a Famicom PSU without load and it will be much higher then 10V. However the Famicom with eh 7805 and other components means that it will draw enough current that the PSU will not drive more votlage into the machine.
Most transformers are designed to work within a wide tolerance because you are never going to get 100V perfectly in every home, under load the wall socket in my Japanese place is giving out 108V AC (the PSU is giving 10.6 volt under load). 120V is well within the tollerance level. Although the US power is nominally 120V as a lot of places are 110V or 115V.
In Europe, nominally the voltage shouldbe 230V, although it does vary from 220V to 240V, although you are likely to mesure between 210V to 250V, although the connectors may be different the PSU in europe is generally the same for games consoles and they have a much higher voltage load to deal with, however the 7805 will regulate the voltage.
I've used a number of Famicom PSUs both with US and Taiwanese power as well as using a 2:1 step down (so 240V in 120V out) and these on on Famicoms that are on 8 hours a day, 7 days a week, at least 6 months a year for the last 6 years at least and I've not had a FC break down or a PSU fail. Yes the transformer is working harder with a higher voltage as is the Famicom but in the grand scheme of things it is not going to make much difference.
So someone is going to ask why 100V <> 120V devices exist and it is because there will be devices that have a much lower tolerance and could be damaged with the higher voltage going in. Also plugging a 120V unit in 100V is more likely to draw excess current and this is generally what will cause PSUs to fail. Although this generally does not apply to transformer based computers and consoles as the transformer generally will work to the tollerance.
Wait, I was checking and noticed that my SNES AC adapter has these ratings:
Input AC120V 60Hz 17w
Output DC10V 850mA
(+)------------(o------------(-) Center Pin Negative
So I'm assuming it would work as well, right? Why is it not mentioned in place of the Sega MK-1 adapter when it is much more likely someone will have an SNES adapter laying around? Would the SNES adapter also work for the Super Famicom?
The barrel plug on the SNES adapter is a larger diameter than will fit into a Famicom. Otherwise, it would be a good substitute.
I can say the barrel plug for the snes is the same on a super comboy.
Two other things that should be mentioned in the FAQ,
The tip for the Famicom / Super Famicom should be 5.5mm outer tip size, 2.1mm inner hole.
Order codes for the UK and the US are
Maplins (UK) order code - AQ88V (Power Tip E)
Radio Shack part number (US) 273-344 (Adaptaplug M has a blue tip)
Although most power adapters with the 6 or so tips come with the correct tip.
Another thing to mention about unregulated PSUs is that if you use a PSU that has a higher amperage rating then what the device draw then the voltage can be higher then 12V, I have seen a PSU output 19V when it was meant to be supplying 9V just because the device was drawing a lower current then what the PSU was rated for.
Hmmm but 9V 1A unregulated PSU is still safe for the famicom, right? That's what I use and sell.
fredJ: I think your adaptors in fact ARE regulated. Measure the voltage when they are under load, and when they are not. It'll shows the same value. E.g ~9V
Always measure the voltage before you sell them to be on the safe side :)
9V at 1A unregulated should be fine as the voltage increase of the PSU of it being used with a Famicom will be tiny.
Pretty much. I need to check a factory adapter to verify if it is or is not regulated, but I seem to recall that it is not.
I so still stand on the point that a step-down transformer is a wise precaution. Not all PSUs have a high tolerance, and the industry standard is often +/-10%, not +/-20%.The excess heat is also a long-term issue, again majorly for the PSU. I see no reason to damage old-stock parts, and the slim chance of overheating, and causing a fire, means that I will mention it as a safety precaution in the FAQ. :bomb:
I agree with you. I also recommend that.
Since so few famicom users have the 3D Glasses, I think it is good to mention that specifically as you do.
Anyways, the suggestion for a PC Engine power source could be misleading. Pc Engine needs far less ampere. The standard adapter is DC 9V 650mA http://www.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93487
Another question, what is best to do in case the adapter catches fire or melts? Suppose it is mounted to a wall. Can I pull it out?
And yet another thing. What happens if the polarity is wrong? I usually test PSU polarity on my SFC console, it only starts with the correct polarity. So I know it is safe to try on. If I use the wrong polarity on the Famicom, will it break?
Oh, and while I am at it. Is there a difference between heavy PSU units, the way they all were built back then (500 grams!), and the light modern ones (<100 grams)?
Quote from: fredJ on December 28, 2011, 12:44:56 pm
If I use the wrong polarity on the Famicom, will it break?
Most likely it'll cause the large capacitor on the RF/power board to blow. If that occurs, the capacitor can be easily replaced and the system will be fine afterwards. It may also fry the 7805, which is also an easily replaceable component. Always remember to mind polarity when trying out power supplies, and you'll save yourself some grief later.
Possibly; it could also do nothing, at least if done briefly. It's nowhere near as harmful as applying AC to it. I can always test this to verify the results but don't expect me to do so immediately. 8)
To answer Fred's other question: The lighter adapters are 'switch mode' power supplies, whereas the older and heavier type use linear transformer circuits. In theory, the SMPSUs are less thirsty, but I personally prefer the power curves on the older models, not to mention that linear transformers are more resilient all-round, and are more likely both to survive a surge (or overheating) as well as less likely to pass that shock to the device they are powering. :bomb:
P.S. I added the barrel connector measurements, as well as the definition of the term for the Famicom PSU, plus the specs for the FDS and Twin system PSUs. I will add the Titler PSU when time allows, although this is largely pointless, given how specialized it is.
I will also need to verify the barrel size of the FDS PSU with my calipers.it may be 5.3 or 5.7mm by 2.1mm instead of 5.5mm by 2.0mm. I just remember that it is slightly off in either direction to prevent crossing over. :diskkun:
Quote from: Xious on December 25, 2011, 02:00:59 pmI so still stand on the point that a step-down transformer is a wise precaution. Not all PSUs have a high tolerance, and the industry standard is often +/-10%, not +/-20%.The excess heat is also a long-term issue, again majorly for the PSU. I see no reason to damage old-stock parts, and the slim chance of overheating, and causing a fire, means that I will mention it as a safety precaution in the FAQ. :bomb:
There is a slim chance that plugging any PSU in to the wall will cause a fire. Although I think you should add, People should as a precaution unplug any PSU or plug from the mains when they are not using them as they do use some electricity and it reduces the risk of a fire if the device fails. I have seen PSUs fail, all cases have been cheap chinese PSUs.
You sort of emphasise that "Using a 100VAC AC-Adapter on 110-120VAC current (the USA standard, which we average to ~115VAC) will
damage it over time.", however do you have any evidence at all that this would be the case? Ther is not much to the FC PSU, a transformer, a bridge rectifier and a cap, all of which are rated at a high enough voltage that even if 12V went through them they would not be stressed. I do understand the use of caution but you do make it sound like if you do not use a 120>100V step down then your house will burn down and frankly in my experience that is just not true.
As mentioned before I do have FC (and Japanese megadrives) PSUs running off 110V to 120V (depending on location) and they are running at least 8 hours a day, 7 days a week for at least 6 months a year, and these have been running for between 9 years (one has and it will be 10 years come may) to a year (so all in all, probably a lot longer then the average person will use a FC) and it is not like I am using 1, I do have about 6 FCs running plus 5 Megadrivers. I've not had any issues with overheating or any of them failing (or indeed any of the FCs failing...), in fact the multivoltage PSUs I use have broken down but the FC and MD ones are working fine and are certainly more bulletproof then the
Still nice that you added Barrel lengths and sizes. :)
People are welcome to use whatever they wish. The design of the factory PSU for the Famicom is certainly more durable than others; however, you aren't taking into account that people import systems that arrive with aftermarket adapters, including poorly made brands and horrible little switching adapters, and not all of them are rated with a high tolerance.
This doesn't mean that old-stock adapters are fine and dandy to use in my book, as the potential chance of damaging the caps and the additional heat (and thus additional entropy) will shorten the lifespan of the parts over time, even if that means over thirty years. Aye, I have PSUs that are far older than that still in operation, and I prefer to keep them thus.
I also have to consider that any traditional design that either uses a cheap rectifier, or forgoes one will have a different ripple on 110-120VAC/60H than on the Nippon standards, which may also cause issues, and that a stepdown transformer will (or should) ease the effect of that problem. Even with the 7805, this can affect video performance / noise, and may cause certain amounts of system faults, although these are generally only temporary, from the same line noise issues.
The damage is primarily to the electrolytic cap in the PSU: Yes, I have seen evidence of this, often in increased video distortion, causing increased ground-plane noise from a dirtier signal off the PSU supply-line. Badly-made adapters could have more serious problems as well. Remember also that I can't assume that people are using a factory adapter, or even know what one would look like. I get FC systems--even boxed/complete systems--all the time that include an aftermarket PSU.
I can of course change 'will.to 'may' in that statement, and clean it up a tad ;) I will keep my recommendation there, and people who wish for more details may read the thread. It's rather beyond the scope of the F.A.Q. to discuss things like power-rail noise and frequency distortions in its body...
On another subject, I'm not sure why Sharp used such odd ratings for all of their equipment. The AN-50X-series use that nutter rated at 7.6V/1.25A, and the AN-510 has a dual-voltage set-up with one GND and two voltage pins; something like 14V and 9V, but not so simple, on a bizarre connector. I don't even see the practicality of the 7.6VDC PSU for the Twins, however I suspect that it is to lessen the heat output on the voltage regulator, from running all that HW on one AC adapter.
Why the two voltages are mandatory on the 510 (Titler) is a question for another day, when I have more sanity to spend dissecting one of my units. I could also use some news on that C1 and the other Sharp objects, if you've any. :bomb:
P.S. I made some modifications: I gave a slightly expanded and reworded explanation of the logic behind the stepdown transformer, as well as directing people seeking more technical information to read the thread. Further, I cleaned the definitions for the barrel connectors somewhat, and did some other tidying.
Most aftermarker PSUs are trash, I am surprised that it is not one of the questions in the FAQ... even PSUs that seem to output the correct voltage have a maximum current draw as much as the Famicom and have the correct input voltage can still go up in smoke.
The first thing that tends to go in the PSU is the smoothing cap drying up and causing ripple but you would get this regardless over years of use. Japan uses 100V at either 50 or 60Hz AC (for most transformer based PSUs the ac fequency does make little difference) depending on where you are in the country. However the frequency makes little difference as the smoothing cap does clean up the ripple, mostly anyway.
The Sharp Twin Famicom probably uses a lower voltage so it can get a larger current output without increasing the wattage, most voltage regulators will happily work at 7.5V anyway. The PSU has a maximum wattage of 9.5W which is only 1W higher then the FC PSU...
The wording to may is better but it is still scary to someone reading it, where it should be a gentle warning not a doom and gloom wording.
One thing you are missig which I think is worrying is about third party and multivoltage PSUs, first you do not anywhere make any note between regulated and unregulated PSUs! Secondly the maximum amperage you should use should probably no be any more then 1.2A as there is no reason to have more then this.
On these two points if someone used a 10V unregulated PSU rated at 3A then someone using it might be surprised when their Famicom goes pop as the unregulated PSU wil probably have a higher voltage if there is not anywhere near the rated amperage being drawn from the PSU.
With multivoltage PSUs you should buy a more expensive regulated PSU, you may also need to look at the current that can be drawn from the PSU at 9V to 10.5V, some will be advertised as 1.5A PSU but then you notice that is only for 3V at 9V it drops to 500ma.
Short question. Is there an european console PSU that will work with the Twin Famicom. Could a PCE-Duo (i have a custom made) or PAL TGX powerbrick do the job? I'm a bit clueless about those technical things^^'
No the PCE Duo is wrong afik, I don't think it fits.
The PCE-Duo is center positive according to my own original adapter for that console. Mine outputs dc9v 1000mA so it should match the Twin. But the plug size is much smaller on the PCE-Duo.
The Twin has different polarity from most other consoles. However, most ordinary PSU have the same polarity as the Twin has. Check what you have and make sure it has the correct voltage and ampere that are listed in the FAQ.
Then all you need is a little chord to go from the ordinary 2.1 mm to the twins 2.5. On eBay such chords cost 1-2$.
Quote from: fredJ on January 13, 2012, 04:39:36 am
But the plug size is much smaller on the PCE-Duo.
Actually the Duo tip is much
bigger than on the Twin Fami. The Duo's measurements are 6.3 mm by 3 mm, whereas the Twin's are 5.5 mm by 2.5 mm.
For an aftermarket Twin PSU with close to correct ratings, you can use (IIRC) a PSOne adapter (7.5VDC) and replace the tip. I don't however recall what the amperage rating of the PSOne PSU is, so this may not be acceptable. I have used (polarity reversed) generic console PSUs (e.g. MegaDrive type) on the Twin, however other people have made claims of problems doing this, which I have experienced seen in practice.
I use a stock Sharp adapter on my main unit, and on my bench (for testing and restoration/repair), just to be safe. :bomb:
Quote from: fredJ on December 28, 2011, 12:44:56 pm
And yet another thing. What happens if the polarity is wrong? I usually test PSU polarity on my SFC console, it only starts with the correct polarity. So I know it is safe to try on. If I use the wrong polarity on the Famicom, will it break?
wrong polarity can't break it, i can guarantee that.
If you changed polarity the only thing is going to happen is that 7805 will heat a lot. But don't care, 7805 has internal shot circuit and thermal protection. I don't know the reason (is it shot circuiting or thermal overheating or both of them) but 7805 in that case will disable power output (by power i mean current).
So it is completely safe. 7805 will protect your famicom from wrong polarity.
if you don't beleive me, try to recreate this test case using a breadboard with 7805 and some other components. Also you should use multi-meter, it will indicate no current at 7805's output.
By the way, SFC/SNES and Sega 'Mega Drive'/Genesis use 7805 as power source too.
Also, 7805 has a wide voltage input range with absolute maximum at 24V. But it that case it will produce a lot of heat so thermal protection will disable output again.
Quote from: Xious on January 18, 2012, 05:08:18 amI don't however recall what the amperage rating of the PSOne PSU is, so this may not be acceptable.
The PSOne power supply outputs 2A so it's more than enough for the Twin Fami.
Quote from: famifan on January 18, 2012, 10:07:25 am
So it is completely safe. 7805 will protect your famicom from wrong polarity.
WRONG!!! It will burn out in most cases, but first, you will blow the fuse in your famicom!It might survive a couple of seconds, depending on the strenght (amperage) of your PSU, but not long. Changing polarity will put electric current in every component of your Famicom where no current should ever be.
(just from my own experience with smoke and flames, I have burned a couple of 7805 with wrong polarity with just 12V !!!)
Early-model systems will destroy the 7805, or damage circuitry, as these models don't have a friendly fuse like the VCCi models. As I said before, it may survive a short while, but I have not tried a polarity reversal on a FC to check the effects over more than second or two. :bomb:
I have put in wrong polarity 9V DC in a couple of consoles, including Twin Famicom, with no problem, and for more than a second or two. How come it explodes for others? Is it an ampere or volt thing maybe?
I have managed to put 5v to gnd without noticing it. The 7805 became hot and didn't output more then 1-2v, far less then required to power up the machine. But nothing blew up or burned (Yay!). When I found the short and corrected it the console worked again.
I'd say the safety-margins are pretty big, but there's a limit.
Maybe it's just me, I have blown at least four 7805s :fire: :fire: :fire:! The plastic on them cracked and a gray disgusting smoke appeared! But I also destroyed countles USB drives just by plugging them into a computer!
It's magic ;D
Will this adapter work for a famicom... as i checked the topic the output is the the same but the input is not... i do not think that the input matters but still...
(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/5513/dsc08396c.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/717/dsc08396c.jpg/)
The output amperage is a bit low (really should be around 850mA @ 10V), but it will probably work okay.
it will be okay only if it really outputs 700mA
Does anyone know why the Twin Fami PSU Amperage is so high?
It's interesting that the output is identical to the standalone Famicom and standalone Disc System - is this coincidence or intentional?
E.g.
- Famicom: 850mA
- Famicom Disk System: 400mA
^ 850mA + 400mA = 1250mA
- Twin Famicom: 1250mA
Assuming that isn't a coincidence, it doesn't make sense to me as the Twin Fami only runs one unit at a time, that is either the cart or the disk - so it shouldn't need a full 1250mA. In theory, an 850mA PSU should run a Twin Fami just fine then?
I actually tested my theory and a Twin Fami that I have here does indeed run without any noticeable problems from a 7.5V 850mA PSU.
Any thoughts/opinions on this?
Typical "over-engineering" of the time, when things were built to last.
Hi all,
Bought an AV Famicom recently and was wondering about the PSU I'm currently using. After reading this thread, I still wonder if I'm OK...
I have an old wall wart (HP brand) with a rating of 9.5VDC 1.5A, which I've been using (it works). I also have a SNES adapter (US version), which has the correct rating of 10VDC 850mA, but the plug doesn't fit. Because the current rating on the HP adapter is so high, I decided to check the voltage and current under load (just loading the title screen of a normal cart) using a multimeter, first with the old HP adapter, then with the SNES one.
Results:
HP adapter: Famicom draws 350mA at 12.2V
SNES adapter: Famicom draws 350mA at 11.6V
Both voltage readings are a bit high -- shouldn't the AV Famicom operate at around 10V with the SNES adapter? And at 12.2V, should I ditch the HP adapter in favor of another one?
Current/voltage readings taken along the wire between the DC adapters and the Famicom DC input jack.
My outlets have an output of 125VAC, according to my digital multimeter.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Dan
Just pickup a model 1 genesis psu.
Hey, does anyone know if you need a step down converter whan using a turbo grafx power cord?
Quote from: Corn holo on April 22, 2012, 08:21:05 pm
Hey, does anyone know if you need a step down converter whan using a turbo grafx power cord?
The TG-16 power supply isn't meant for 220V so you'll need a voltage converter to use it. However, I would just use something like a Mega Drive power supply since the TG-16 uses the same kind of PSU and you won't have to bother with voltage converters.
Quote from: 2A03 on April 23, 2012, 09:23:51 am
Quote from: Corn holo on April 22, 2012, 08:21:05 pm
Hey, does anyone know if you need a step down converter whan using a turbo grafx power cord?
The TG-16 power supply isn't meant for 220V so you'll need a voltage converter to use it. However, I would just use something like a Mega Drive power supply since the TG-16 uses the same kind of PSU and you won't have to bother with voltage converters.
Thanks, I also have a combination adapter that works with the NTSC nes, super nes, and sega genesis. Will I still need a converter? Thanks...
Those "combination adapters" usually have a 110/220V switch on them.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/5195G5SS7CL.jpg)
If yours does, glue the switch in place after setting the correct voltage. They have the horrible tendency of moving on their own, with lots of smoke and fireworks as a result.
Also most of those have horrible build quality. If yours produces hum bars in the picture and buzzing sound, discard it. Do not leave them plugged in unattended because they're a fire hazard.
Quote from: 133MHz on April 23, 2012, 06:55:31 pm
Those "combination adapters" usually have a 110/220V switch on them.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/5195G5SS7CL.jpg)
If yours does, glue the switch in place after setting the correct voltage. They have the horrible tendency of moving on their own, with lots of smoke and fireworks as a result.
Also most of those have horrible build quality. If yours produces hum bars in the picture and buzzing sound, discard it. Do not leave them plugged in unattended because they're a fire hazard.
Sorry if I'm being a burden but I was under the impression that the walls here in the US output 120 volts, not 220 volts. In that case, would I still need a transformer for the tg16 adapter or the combo thing. Please correct me if I'm wrong, and thanks once again.
Quote from: Corn holo on April 24, 2012, 04:51:55 am
Sorry if I'm being a burden but I was under the impression that the walls here in the US output 120 volts, not 220 volts. In that case, would I still need a transformer for the tg16 adapter or the combo thing. Please correct me if I'm wrong, and thanks once again.
They do, I was assuming you were in Europe since you asked about a voltage converter. Like I said, a Genesis power supply will work fine for the TG-16 by itself. For the TG-CD you'll need a different power supply.
Quote from: 2A03 on April 24, 2012, 12:27:51 pm
Quote from: Corn holo on April 24, 2012, 04:51:55 am
Sorry if I'm being a burden but I was under the impression that the walls here in the US output 120 volts, not 220 volts. In that case, would I still need a transformer for the tg16 adapter or the combo thing. Please correct me if I'm wrong, and thanks once again.
They do, I was assuming you were in Europe since you asked about a voltage converter. Like I said, a Genesis power supply will work fine for the TG-16 by itself. For the TG-CD you'll need a different power supply.
oh, wait, wow. herp derp. Okay, huge misunderstanding on my part. I was asking if you could use those adapters on a famicom. wow, sorry
Additionally, I found this adapter in my house, wondering if it will work on a famicom. It reads as follows.
MODEL: YS - 1015-U12
INPUT: 100~120V~
60Hz,0.45A
OUTPUT: + 12VDC/1.25A
once again, again thanks
Quote from: Corn holo on April 24, 2012, 02:30:37 pm
Additionally, I found this adapter in my house, wondering if it will work on a famicom. It reads as follows.
MODEL: YS - 1015-U12
INPUT: 100~120V~
60Hz,0.45A
OUTPUT: + 12VDC/1.25A
once again, again thanks
What's the polarity? If it's tip positive it won't work.
Hey, guys, i don't know where to ask this.
I want to have Sega controller on my famiclone (Terminator), but it have 9 pin connector instead 15 pin.
So, if I find chords with 15 pin connectors , is it possible to replace 9 pin Sega with 15 pin connector?
thanks guys, this forum is awsome.
Quote from: smeghead on May 13, 2012, 03:17:17 pm
Hey, guys, i don't know where to ask this.
I want to have Sega controller on my famiclone (Terminator), but it have 9 pin connector instead 15 pin.
So, if I find chords with 15 pin connectors , is it possible to replace 9 pin Sega with 15 pin connector?
thanks guys, this forum is awsome.
The pinouts between the Genesis and most Famiclones are completely different so that won't work.
I just won a Twin Famicom audction, and it doesn't came with a power supply that works on a EU power socket. So now i need to find a cheap power supply for it.
So any idea where i can buy one and the pins have to look like this
(http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/511035887/Germany_Plug_VDE_2_Pin_Electrical_AC.jpg)
I have it... PM me. :D I need to go to bed now.
Quote from: 2A03 on May 13, 2012, 05:50:55 pm
Quote from: smeghead on May 13, 2012, 03:17:17 pm
Hey, guys, i don't know where to ask this.
I want to have Sega controller on my famiclone (Terminator), but it have 9 pin connector instead 15 pin.
So, if I find chords with 15 pin connectors , is it possible to replace 9 pin Sega with 15 pin connector?
thanks guys, this forum is awsome.
The pinouts between the Genesis and most Famiclones are completely different so that won't work.
How about Sega style controller (it's written Dendy on it) , it's 9 pin and works on my 'Polystation'..
i thought about solidering 15 pin chord on the circuit board of 9 pin controller (someone on fcworld forum said that it's possible)
Post Merge: May 15, 2012, 04:39:29 pm
I mean 'fake' Sega controller
it looks like this one
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_dNL26ijWiVQ/TBfGSyZQfFI/AAAAAAAAAcs/DOWBCNjBnc8/s1600/gamepads.jpg)
I have an AV Famicom that appears to have been bundled with the wrong power supply, and seemed to have shorted something. Is there a way to fix there, or does it boil down to live and learn, and purchase a new system? :'(
Are you sure it doesn't work? You need to get the correct power supply. Notice the polarity is different from most other consoles.
Quote from: Yelir on June 08, 2012, 03:52:07 pm
I have an AV Famicom that appears to have been bundled with the wrong power supply, and seemed to have shorted something. Is there a way to fix there, or does it boil down to live and learn, and purchase a new system? :'(
Hard to tell, you have to refurbish voltage regulator first.
Can anyone help with finding a AC adaptor for the Famicom in australia?
Quote from: Flemishdog on June 18, 2012, 01:42:42 am
Can anyone help with finding a AC adaptor for the Famicom in australia?
Just use a Master System 1, Master System 2 or Mega Drive 1 PSU.
Another option is to grab one of those PSU's from JayCar or DIckSmith's that come with a range of reversible tips.
Quote from: Frank_fjs on June 18, 2012, 03:43:45 am
Quote from: Flemishdog on June 18, 2012, 01:42:42 am
Can anyone help with finding a AC adaptor for the Famicom in australia?
Just use a Master System 1, Master System 2 or Mega Drive 1 PSU.
Another option is to grab one of those PSU's from JayCar or DIckSmith's that come with a range of reversible tips.
so just this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sega-Master-System-1-Power-Adapter-/130659660615?pt=AU_Video_Game_Accessories&hash=item1e6bec3347#ht_776wt_1163 Thanks!
Yep, that will work though it's rather expensive. You can get the exact same thing from Hong Kong for around $5 landed, you just have to be prepared to wait 2-3 weeks for it to arrive.
If you buy from Hong Kong, I recommend buying one with a fuse from a seller that knows what he is selling.
The better soldering on those cheap things, the cleaner the DC output will be. And a fuse will prevent overheating.
Nah i just found out that the NTSC NES and Famicom can be powered by the same power adapter?
Quote from: tonev on June 24, 2012, 12:21:08 pm
Nah i just found out that the NTSC NES and Famicom can be powered by the same power adapter?
Kinda. A DC power adapter, like the Famicom, Megadrive/genesis 1, SFC etc will work on either system. The original NES adapter is AC, and will fry a Famicom.
Quote from: tonev on June 24, 2012, 12:21:08 pm
Nah i just found out that the NTSC NES and Famicom can be powered by the same power adapter?
I like that NES accepts both AC and DC adapters natively. :)
I hope this hasn't been awnsered yet, but I recently got a Power Player Super Joy III Famiclone from Goodwill for 3 bucks. Unfortuately the battery pack is missing and it didn't come with an adapter, I don't suppose the adapter from an NES Toaster will work will it? Heres the link to the PPSJ III power requirements. " 9 volt (negative tip) DC power-adapter " http://bootleggames.wikia.com/wiki/Power_Player_Super_Joy_III What about any other systems?
Quote from: 232stinger on July 09, 2012, 06:40:54 am
I hope this hasn't been awnsered yet, but I recently got a Power Player Super Joy III Famiclone from Goodwill for 3 bucks. Unfortuately the battery pack is missing and it didn't come with an adapter, I don't suppose the adapter from an NES Toaster will work will it? Heres the link to the PPSJ III power requirements. " 9 volt (negative tip) DC power-adapter " http://bootleggames.wikia.com/wiki/Power_Player_Super_Joy_III What about any other systems?
In USA, you'd want a Famicom equivalent adapter.
NES adapter isn't right. That provides AC instead.
127 V, 220 V 60 Hz
This is the voltage and the frequency of my country. is it ok to use the original famicom AC Adapter ?
if not. please give me some link from ebay or amazon so i can buy the right one.
* Excuse me, I can not understand the topic clearly because of my bad English.
used Google trans..
Thank you very much.
127 V is high but could work, if not recommended.
220 V will burn up the famicom AC adapter.
i use this ...
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/OEM-NES-Nintendo-Entertainment-System-NES-002-AC-Power-Supply-Adapter-Cord-/00/s/MTEyOVgxNjAw/$%28KGrHqV,!rQE88hJNFNbBPfjD%28CSuw~~60_57.JPG
to my top loader and it works great .. but as i understand that will burn my famicom or damge it.
How about this one.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Sega-Genesis-AC-Adapter-Original-Not-3rd-Party-Model-MK-2103-SEGA-/00/s/NjM3WDY0MA==/$%28KGrHqRHJCoE9rehwC7sBPefWhwo-w~~60_3.JPG)
can i use it Without any problems ?
Wrong polarity. Cut & switch the wires if you want to use that on your Famicom.
How do you tell polarity?
Look for the markings on the back of the AC Adapter.
(http://i.imgur.com/or7YT.png)
Quote from: Mo-hd on July 17, 2012, 10:42:15 am
Really i do not know what to do ... :(
any link from ebay or amazon I would be grateful.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEGA-GENESIS-16-BIT-POWER-CORD-MODEL-1602-3-SEGA-BRAND-/320912869282?pt=Video_Games_Accessories&hash=item4ab7e5c7a2
Nice ;D.
Lum,ericj .. Thank you very much.
I really appreciate your help.
Hi, I've just got a standard famicom and I have two adapters for it, can anyone tell me which one is better for the system?
First one(turbographx adapter):
Model: HES-ACA-01
Input: 120 VAC 60 Hz 15W
Output: 10.5 VDC 730 mA
Negative polarity
Second one(aftermarket genesis model 1 adapter):
Class 2 power supply
P/N:SJ-093016B
Model:HRZ-48D-0900800UL
Input:120V AC 60Hz 0.1A
Ouput: 10V DC 1200mA
Negative polarity
I'm thinking the second one would work better, but I'm concerned about the excess mA's overheating it. Any better one here, or do they both suck?
edit: I notice with both adapters, the back vent of the famicom starts to get a little on the warm side after 10-15 minutes. Not hot, just warm. Is this it slowly overheating?
Either one is perfectly fine.
Ok, good to know. I'm just a little paranoid when it comes to electricity. I'm always worried the system getting warm means :fire: haha.
Also, just noticed your username is my first name and middle initial. Weird coincidence.
Haha , Eric is a good name. ;D Perhaps I'm biased.
the ampere question is covered in the first post in the thread.
you can go to page 1 in the thread by clicking on the 1 below, or click on this link http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=6933.0 , then press Ctrl+F and search for "ampere" (without the quotation marks)
you may need to search more than once to get the question answered. Usually this is achieved by pressing Ctrl+G in the web browser, after performing the first search with Ctrl+F as described above
Though, probably should add, the original poster was an imposter. But I think the FAQ is at least 80% accurate, 10% fairly accurate, and maybe 5-10% fabricated.
Anyways, I would personally chose the MD adapter with more amps. 730 mA is unnecessary low.
Hi all,
I have a Famicom Hong Kong version, but i live in the uk and i'm bit of a newb!
What would i need to power this system?
Cheers! ;D
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8037/8058126559_3232385aa6_c.jpg)
You should be all set. Hong Kong, being a former UK territory, uses the same voltage and television standards so it should work for you in the UK without the need of converters. If you don't have the AC adapter that came with it you can use a Sega Mega Drive model 1 AC adapter or any power brick capable of at least 850mA @ 9V DC center negative.
Thanks!
Will try to find the right adaptor, and find out if this thing even works?!? ;D
In regards to the voltage converter linked in the OP: http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-1000J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4SVU
How would one go about attaching a power strip to this to power multiple components? The only power strips I know of have a ground pin, but the 100V output of that converter does not have a ground socket.
i wanna ask something, even if got the original famicom adapter, the output in my country is 110 / 220 does this represent a risk for my console, what can i do if it is?
thanks for reading :D :)
Are you from Brazil? Not many countries run on dual voltage standards (not counting 220V split phase systems like the US - true either/or depending on location) and if that's the case you must find the exact voltage used in your area before plugging in a non-universal appliance.
QuoteIn Brazil there is no standard voltage; most states use 110-127 V electricity (Rio Grande do Sul, Paraná, São Paulo, Minas Gerais, Bahia, Rio de Janeiro, Pará, Amazonas,...). In many hotels, however, 220 V can be found. 220-240 V is used mainly in the northeast: in the capital Brasilia (Distrito Federal) and, among others, in the states of Ceará, Pernambuco and Santa Catarina.
Not from brazil, from colombia i guess some countries of south america share that dual current, so is better if i get a universal adapter and set it up¿? :)
Quote from: Josh on October 09, 2012, 06:43:17 pm
In regards to the voltage converter linked in the OP: http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-1000J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4SVU
How would one go about attaching a power strip to this to power multiple components? The only power strips I know of have a ground pin, but the 100V output of that converter does not have a ground socket.
By using a 2 prong to 3 prong convertor
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-9901-Grounding-Converter/dp/B002HGUQYK
Most consoles and power supplies are double insulated and do not require earthing but it is good to screw in the ground point.
Hello everyone, I'm a newcomer here even though a long-time Nintendo enthusiast, who finally acquired an equally long-sought Famicom (AV-modded). :)
As my very first post here, I'd like to ask some advice on the right way to supply power to the console, as I'm having some unexpected issues on this regard.
I live in Europe, Italy. I tried to use a 'Universal switching' PSU with the following characteristics:
Input: 100 / 230V AC
Output (switchable): 3,0 / 4,5 / 5,0 / 6,0 / 7,5 / 9,0 / 12V DC (I set it to 9V, with the polarity configured on + C -)
Now, the problem is that using this power supply results in a distorted and rolling / blinking black and white picture, with some slight buzzing audio as well. I immediately switched the system off and I really, really hope not to have damaged anything.
I'm fairly certain that my TV supports 60hz through composite, as it's one of the latest Sony CRT panels manufactured here and every other NTSC console I've tested through composite played magnificently on it. So, I'm excluding it's a video-related problem.
Is this PSU inappropriate? And also, is it risky to make further attempts with it? I also have to remark that the plug itself on the adapter doesn't completely fit the Famicom socket, could this be a reason of concern?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Quote from: Arren on December 21, 2012, 04:23:20 am
Now, the problem is that using this power supply results in a distorted and rolling / blinking black and white picture, with some slight buzzing audio as well.
your PSU is weak and can't provide enough power for famicom.
Thanks for the prompt answer! Now, one thing I forgot to state is that the PSU is rated at 1000mA. I thought that was enough?
1А for what output voltage?
true real 9V 1A is enough
Post Merge: December 21, 2012, 05:53:35 am
Quote from: Arren on December 21, 2012, 04:35:53 am
Thanks for the prompt answer! Now, one thing I forgot to state is that the PSU is rated at 1000mA. I thought that was enough?
the failure reason is the voltage drop on high load, such as 1A. If the voltage goes below 7V you get noise in picture and sound
try to check output voltage on such high load
I'm still getting a distorted and rolling b&w picture, after using both a more efficient PSU and a stepdown converter with the original famicom PSU. Further research seems to point to the fact that it's actually a video-related problem. I can hear the sound perfectly fine, but the video gives a distorted and rolling picture. :(
As far as I can gather from the documentation on the matter, it seems the video is losing sync with my (PAL) TV. Are there any easy solutions to this mess?
Can you force your TV into NTSC mode? Who AV modded your Famicom? I'd open it and check that it doesn't have the Makko PAL board.
Actually my TV doesn't have a 'NTSC mode', but it should accept NTSC signals perfectly fine, as I tested a Super Famicom with a composite lead immediately after trying this Famicom and the result was a crystal clear image.
I don't know who modded my console, I bought it off a fairly reputable vendor on eBay.
Hi everyone,
I live in Europe/UK and recently got a Super Famicom and Japanese N64. Now what i need to know is what type of adapter i should use for the two consoles?
I read the 1st post and still kinda confused... suppose for Super Famicom i can use this (http://i.ebayimg.com/t/AC-Power-Supply-Mains-Adaptor-for-Sega-Megadrive-2-and-32X-NEW-/00/s/NzUwWDc1MA==/$(KGrHqIOKp0E6YCOV4-TBOmt(fek,Q~~60_12.JPG) or this (http://i.ebayimg.com/t/SEGA-MEGADRIVE-ORIGINAL-AC-MAINS-ADAPTER-MODEL-NUMBER-1602-05-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/$(KGrHqF,!osFCrtd-(wtBQvTZw2vY!~~60_12.JPG)
if not, what about this ones?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Psu-Ac-Adaptor-4-Pc-engine-Famicom-Megadrive-Console-/190501243465?pt=UK_VideoGames_VideoGameAccessories_VideoGameAccessories_JN&hash=item2c5ac24a49
And what about the N64, can i just plugin a PAL adapter?
Hope you can help, thank you :)
Super Famicom will work with Mega Drive 1 adapter only Mega Drive 2 has reverse polarity and the plug is smaller
For N64 your either going to need a 220-240 Ac Adapter or step downlike this (http://www.gson.org/stepdown/stepdown-small.jpg)
Edit:check your AC adapter on the N64 it may be dual voltage 100-240 if so you're good I know some 3rd party ones are but I can remember about official ones
Quote from: bolsas on December 21, 2012, 03:52:03 pm
And what about the N64, can i just plugin a PAL adapter?
Yeah if you have a PAL N64 already you can just use that adapter. It should have 220-240v input and 12v output.
I use my PAL N64's adapter for my Japanese N64.
I been using my TurboGrafx-16 PSU with my NES and the Genesis, No Problem
nvm; will place in a more appropriate thread to reduce redundancy
Can i use european Atari Jaguar power supply on Super Famicom?
Details
AC/DC Adaptor
Input 240 50hz
Output 9v 1.2A 10.8VA
It seems fine so far, but it needs to be center negative as well. Check the power adapter's label.
Hey, I live in the United States, our output here is 120v I believe (if that's relevent to my question below)
Quote from: Famicomman on December 13, 2011, 08:28:48 pm
Now my question is if I use the Sega Genesis Type-1 Adapter will I also need a stepdown adapter still or do I only need a stepdown converter if using a Japanese AC adapter?
I'm actually wondering this myself. Also, I read on another forum that if you're using a different AC adapter such as a Gen-1 to power your Famicom, you should unplug it when the Famicom is turned off and isn't being used. Maybe because it will eventually overheat the Famicom if you leave it plugged in? I would like confirmation on this.
If your Sega Genesis 1 adapter is made for US systems then it should have 120v input already (should be stated on the label), so you don't need a stepdown in that case.
It's always best to unplug the AC adapter official or not, when you are turning off the Famicom and are not going to use it for a while.
I know that any console that remains plugged in, imported or not, uses a little bit of power even when turned off. I have a lot of consoles plugged in right now and I just leave all of them plugged in all the time. It's not worth saving a couple dollars a month to have to plug and unplug each console everytime I want to play. That being said, it's not saving money on my electric bill that I'm worried about. I just don't want to put my Famicom in any kind of danger.
So I guess my question is, is it safe to keep the Famicom plugged in all the time, as long as the system itself is turned off when not in use?
The AC adapter should ideally only be plugged in while being used since leaving it plugged in all the time will shorten its life. Also, it's not really safe to leave an AC adapter plugged in all the time since they can overheat and cause a fire, especially given how old the Famicom adapters are.
You could always use a power strip with an on/off switch to make it easier to only have your consoles on while you're using them.
Yeah, that's what I'm gonna end up doing. I'm rearranging all my console cords right now, and labeling the ones that aren't labeled yet. I have 3 power strips that i'll use for my consoles (not all of the ports on the power strips will be used, this is just mainly for expansion when i get more consoles in the future). I'd like to plug in the power strips to each other, so that way all I have to do is just switch off 1 power strip and it'll switch off the other ones automatically. That should be fine, right?
EDIT: I found out that "daisy-chaining" is a fire hazard, so I ended up just using extension cords to plug into the power strip, so it gave me more outlets to work with. However, it would still be nice to find a way to turn off that power strip without having to get down on my knees, go behind the bench and physically turn it off. Maybe I could still use 2 power strips, but chain it to where the only thing plugged into the power strip is the other power strip? That way, I'd have a power strip that's much easier to access and turn off.
As long as you just use one of the power strips as a cord extender for the other one it should be ok. If you plug too many electronic devices into the same wall outlet using power strips and such, you might blow a fuse though, so only plug them into one of them (you can put tape over the other power strip outlets so that you or other people don't use them by accident). Alternately just use a normal cable extender.
Quote from: P on September 23, 2013, 04:45:59 amIf you plug too many electronic devices into the same wall outlet using power strips and such, you might blow a fuse though, so only plug them into one of them
That would be the case only if I had all the consoles on at the same time though, right? I mean, I know all of them use a little bit of power when they're turned off, but it should be okay to have all the consoles plugged in on the same outlet as long as I only have one console powered on at a time. I also heard somewhere that within a same room, all outlets use the same circuit?
With that being said, I re-arranged how I have this setup:
- I have
14 gaming consoles, 11 of which are all hooked up and ready to go. The plan is to have all of them plugged in and ready to play.
- I have 2 TVs. A 32" widescreen Sony Trinitron and a 20" Panasonic tube TV. All consoles up to 16-bit are plugged into the tube TV. Everything else is running through the Trinitron.
There are 2 power strips being plugged in to the same wall outlet (1 powerstrip in each socket). 1 power strip has all the gaming consoles that I have on the vertical multi-shelf, and the other power strip has all the gaming consoles that are on the bench. The vertical shelf has the old-school consoles that are not played for hours at a time, so I plan on keeping that power strip off. The other strip has the new consoles plugged into it, so I plan on keeping that on ALL the time, which hopefully isn't a problem.
This might be kind of hard to visualize, so I went ahead and took some pictures.
To the right, you can see the multi-shelf I'm talking about
(http://neuropod.net/imagehost/uploads/4806fe31f60656185c297f48792ee639.JPG)
Further right still, you can see the bench that has the more modern consoles (the PS3 hasn't been plugged in yet, it's upstairs)
The Atari is on a TV tray close to the couch because the controller cords are very short
(http://neuropod.net/imagehost/uploads/74c904d9b2f702bbbd282f75455543dc.JPG)
Below the bench are the 2 power strips. The one on the left...
(http://neuropod.net/imagehost/uploads/510cb7607877a71eafa679a910be2fe9.JPG)
...is powering all the consoles on the shelf, including the Famicom.
(http://neuropod.net/imagehost/uploads/a03c576a06abdf755874a3b8b81e3c65.JPG)
this one (the one on the right) is powering all the consoles on the bench.
(http://neuropod.net/imagehost/uploads/52b53394ec13c9de0f627720b03234c6.JPG)
All the consoles you see on the multi-shelf, excluding the Famicom, have been plugged in for over a year now, and I have never experienced any popped fuses, overloaded circuits, etc. As a precaution to protect the Famicom however, I decided to plug all the consoles on the multi-shelf into it's own power strip so I can have that one off when none of those consoles are being played. For the newer consoles such as the Wii U (not pictured, but it is plugged in to a shelf to the right of the Atari), I like to keep it plugged in and powered all the time for automatic updates and messages, so the power strip that it's plugged into is on all the time.
As an added precaution to the Famicom, I went ahead and ordered the original Japanese PSU and will be ordering the step-down converter from Amazon mentioned in the OP.
So, I guess problem solved!
EDIT: oh, I guess you
can see the Wii U in one of the pics =p
So I went ahead and ordered the transformer that was recommended in the OP. In the States, our outlets give 120v, which is 20v over what the Famicom should get. When the transformer arrives, I should plug the Famicom power adapter into the right socket that reads "JAPAN VOLTAGE 100V LINE", correct? Probably a stupid question, but I just want to make sure. My logic is that, since the Famicom expects 100v, that's what it should receive, and if I plug it into the left port, it would get 120v, which would be no different than just plugging it into the wall outlet directly.
Your logic is correct. The 120v socket is probably for "stepping up" 100v to 120v if you are in eg. Japan and wants to use your US devices (however three-hole-outlets (grounded outlets) are not that common in Japan).
Just some nitpicking: It's technically not the Famicom that excepcts 100v but the AC-DC adapter. The adapter then converts the 100v AC power into 10v DC power. Then there's a voltage regulator inside the Famicom that stepps down it into 5v DC that the components expect.
It would actually be cheaper just to buy a new AC adapter that outputs the same as the Famicom's rather than buy a stepdown converter. Or, you could just use the one that came with your Famicom. It wouldn't get damaged; however, the voltage regulator in the Famicom would dissipate a bit more heat as a result of a couple extra volts.
Hello guys, I have a discrete famiclone that takes 9V 850mA, and the only adapter I have close to it is a 10V 850mA. I read about tolerances in the OP, but I'm wondering if it will cause damage in the long run, or if my play sessions are too long?
I've got a question about step-down converters like the one Ya Dad mentioned (120v -> 100v); can you use a US power strip or surge protector (120v rated) to plug multiple devices into the converter (say a famicom and a megadrive, or megadrive and mega cd)? Or would it be better to play it safe and go get a Japanese power strip?
Sorry, I'm totally ignorant about this type of stuff and wanted to make sure. Thanks!
Generally you should only connect one device at a time in the step-down. Now of course Famicom isn't very power hungry but it's good to not make a bad habit of it.
Thanks! I've got an extra one so I'll route each device separately.
so what AC adapter (for the US that some one here has personal experience with) works on an AV Famicom with no risk of damaging hardware, please?
(I've got an AV Famicom on the way and would like to have the adapter I need by the time it arrives :) )
Thanks :)
Sega Genesis Model 2 adapter will work perfectly.
the smaller one with the yellow tip, came with the 2nd genesis (without the headphone port/volume control)?
Quote from: g_block on January 04, 2014, 05:40:19 pm
so what AC adapter (for the US that some one here has personal experience with) works on an AV Famicom with no risk of damaging hardware, please?
(I've got an AV Famicom on the way and would like to have the adapter I need by the time it arrives :) )
Thanks :)
A sega genesis model 1 psu will work just fine,it's what I use on my av famicom.
Hi all!!
The thread is quite useful but I have this question.
I live in France and I have a AV Famicom. I am almost sure the PSU is not the official one (well actually , I am sure lol)
It displays this:
I/P:100-240v 50-60kz 0.42A
O/P: DC 9V 2.0A
Until now, I have been using a step down converter..one of those big black box. So far so good. But I have been wondering latetly wether I could use just one these "thingies" for the plug (the same one might use for laptops or shavers).
Thanks!
If the input is 100-240v like you said it is, then surely it should work anywhere in the world without a step-down. France (and the rest of Europe) has somewhere between 220-240v.
I figured....that's what logic told me but I was unsure since the cost (frying the FC) would have been quite high!Also, I am a noob in such matters!
If you have a multimeter (or voltmeter) you can always check the voltage first to be sure.
If i read it correct, i can use a Super famicom power adaptor for the famicom? Those are the same? Because i can not use a PAL SNES power adaptor on the famicom...
^
Yes
I have a question for those of you who own and use multiple Japanese systems.
I'm planning to get a Famicom and eventually a Disk System and a Super Famicom. The OP recommends a step-down transformer to convert 120V to 100V, understandably so. But most of those transformers only have one or two outlets. If you have 3 or more systems, what do you guys recommend I do? The PSUs for all three Famicoms are very large and aren't likely to fit together so easily.
You can plug a power strip into the step down converter and all of its outlets will have the reduced voltage.
Is it safe to just use a regular US power strip? Or do I have to use a Japanese power strip? Just making sure.
The voltage is close enough not to matter, I've been using Japanese systems and power supplies for eons, but if you're worried just use a US Genesis power supply. That's a whole lot easier than worrying about step down converters.
Do not use a NES supply!
I have a model 2 Sega Genesis (the one that came with Sonic 2). But I saw a post earlier in the thread saying that its polarity is the opposite of the model 1 PSU.
I'd really prefer to just use the Famicom's PSU. I feel it's the safest option.
Quote from: Bob-Bob on May 17, 2014, 08:04:45 pm
Is it safe to just use a regular US power strip? Or do I have to use a Japanese power strip? Just making sure.
Shouldn't matter, but if you connect more than one machine to the same step-down converter then you'll have to make sure that the total wattage doesn't exceed what the step-down can handle. Mainly you should only connect one machine to the step-down at a time. For Famicom and Disk System it probably doesn't matter because they draw very little power but don't think that you can just plug in a PS3 at the same time.
Being lazy may cost you your house or life, so I think it's best to manually only plug in what you use at the moment.
Quote from: Bob-Bob on May 17, 2014, 08:04:45 pm
Is it safe to just use a regular US power strip? Or do I have to use a Japanese power strip? Just making sure.
US power strip is fine.
Re: Exceeding the wattage.
This probably sounds like a really dumb question, when you calculate the wattage of an AC (or DC) adapter, do you multiply the Amps by the Output Voltage or the Input Voltage?
Also, the shelf in my room is reserved for consoles PS2 and below. Right now I have 5 systems plugged in (PS2, GCN, N64, SNES and NES) only 4 of which are plugged into a power surge which is currently off. The NES is plugged into the bottom outet. If/when I get a Famicom, Super Famicom, etc. I'll likely remove their US counterparts and put the aforementioned transformer into the bottom outlet with its own power surge as UglyJoe suggested. Is that OK?
Quote from: Bob-Bob on May 18, 2014, 08:46:49 am
Re: Exceeding the wattage.
This probably sounds like a really dumb question, when you calculate the wattage of an AC (or DC) adapter, do you multiply the Amps by the Output Voltage or the Input Voltage?
Output voltage (in other words the voltage that the console draws).
Quote from: Bob-Bob on May 18, 2014, 08:46:49 am
Also, the shelf in my room is reserved for consoles PS2 and below. Right now I have 5 systems plugged in (PS2, GCN, N64, SNES and NES) only 4 of which are plugged into a power surge which is currently off. The NES is plugged into the bottom outet. If/when I get a Famicom, Super Famicom, etc. I'll likely remove their US counterparts and put the aforementioned transformer into the bottom outlet with its own power surge as UglyJoe suggested. Is that OK?
So you mean all your US consoles will also receive 100 volt? I doubt it would harm them, but they might not work properly if you turn them on while plugged in to the step-down. As a layman I don't dare to say too much, and I can really only suggest to just plug in each console into it's proper step-down/outlet whenever you use them. I do that all the time. I understand if you want to be able to plug in a Famicom (8 watt) and FDS (4 watt) at the same time though, and that should be ok unless your step-down is like 10 watt (which I doubt even exists).
That isn't what I meant. I said one outlet would be reserved for US consoles (on their own power surge), and the other outlet would be for JP consoles (on a power surge plugged into the transformer). When one is on, the other goes off. I was wondering if that was an ok setup.
I see. Yeah well I guess that's OK. You still have to make sure you (or anyone else) doesn't exceed the limits for your step-down of course.
Of course not.
I was thinking a 1000 Watt like the one Xious mentioned in the OP might be a little too pricey and heavy, so I was wondering what you guys think would be a more reasonable wattage to get?
I use a 100 watt one but it's much more than necessary for Famicom. Get one with wattage that covers what you will most likely need considering what devices you are going to use with it.
Heia
I live in Norway, and i'm thinkning about getting an AV Famicom.
Can i use this power adapter? https://www.conceptentertainment.se/pub_images/original/MD_Cable_Power_MD1_Original_2542.jpg
Thank you.
Ok, so I think I'm gonna get this: http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4
My question is, I'm gonna have more than one Japanese device plugged in at one time. All power strips I've ever seen have ground plugs, and the 100v line on this model doesn't accommodate ground plugs. What can I do about this? I can't find any power strips that don't have ground plugs. Is using a surge protector power strip with a 3-prong-to-2-prong converter safe for my Famicom and Famicom Disk System? Maybe there's a converter with multiple 100v plugs on it? Any suggestions?
Since Famicom and Disk System doesn't have a ground line it should be safe with those (they are low voltage and protected by a plastic case). I have never seen a step-down converter with multiple 100v plugs on it, reason is because people would plug in more than it can handle.
Don't know if this has been mentioned before, but I just got a Brother P-touch and the AD-24 adapter looks suitable for Famicom/SuperFamicom/Model1Genesis. I think? The plug fits fine but was kinda scared to check. Can anyone confirm? Here's a pic:
Is it centre negative? It's a bit hard to tell for sure on the picture. Otherwise it looks OK to me.
Meets all the requirements so you should be good to go.
I just got the Family Computer Disk System from Windy Gaming, and I used the Casio AD-510 PSU on the FDS system, because it meets the following outputs -
*9V DC
*700mA
*Center Negative
And I also bought General Electric Advanced Surge Protector.
http://www.jascoproducts.com/products/pc/GE-Advanced-8-Outlet-Surge-Protector-with-Coax-Cable-Protection-p1352.htm#.U-jwP_ldWSo
I don't have an original Nintendo AC adapter, and I really want my Famicom AV to get the right amount of juice. I've read that the AC adapter for the Sega Genesis Model 1 will work, but I'm not 100% on that.
Do not use a NES adapter, it will blow up your Famicom. (because AC and DC are very different)
But a Sega Genesis adapter would be a suitable replacement for sure.
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=6933.0
There. It's sticky for a reason ;) .
Of course, if you have any questions about the linked FAQ, don't hesitate to ask!
Okay, I am an idiot...
In a hurry to try out a new FC game that required the FC port I grabbed my A/V FC and mistakenly an U.S. NES power supply and YES I used it. Or should I say attempted to.
Is my A/V FC fixable?
Thanks for any help.
So it doesn't work anymore? I'm pretty sure that AV Famicom has a fuse so check that first.
I hope something as simple as that. Problem being I REALLY know nothing about electronics.
I can and have followed instructions but calling me a novice is a complement, lol.
I put a pic of the board.
Quote from: infiniteNOP on August 12, 2014, 02:10:40 am
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=6933.0
There. It's sticky for a reason ;) .
Of course, if you have any questions about the linked FAQ, don't hesitate to ask!
Sorry about that; I didn't mean to clog the boards. When I got my Famicom AV last Summer, I turned it on, and white smoke started coming out! So it clearly had the wrong power supply. I just hope that what burned was just white plastic, and that the console still lasts for a long time. :question:
Quote from: dave4shmups on August 14, 2014, 09:14:09 pm
Quote from: infiniteNOP on August 12, 2014, 02:10:40 am
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=6933.0
There. It's sticky for a reason ;) .
Of course, if you have any questions about the linked FAQ, don't hesitate to ask!
Sorry about that; I didn't mean to clog the boards. When I got my Famicom AV last Summer, I turned it on, and white smoke started coming out! So it clearly had the wrong power supply. I just hope that what burned was just white plastic, and that the console still lasts for a long time. :question:
Which adapter did you use? Check the voltage regulator on the circuit board along with related circuitry. There is a large possibility your Famicom is burned out :( .
Maybe the fuse is on the other side if there is one. It will probably look something like this one http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/blown-snes-fuse-repair/ which is for SNES.
I did some googling and someone at assembler said AV Famicom doesn't have a fuse. If it doesn't you'll probably have to replace the voltage regulator and maybe some more components like the nearby capacitors.
I heard all kinds of stories when people are using the wrong power adapter. Sometimes nothing happens at all, while other times smoke comes out.
One guy I know plugged in his friend's karaoke machine that he had brought from Japan. He wasn't thinking and plugged it in without using the step down converter (he must have used a pin adapter or something because Japanese plugs doesn't fit in Swedish outlets), then he realized what he was doing and immediately unplugged it, but smoke had already started coming out. This karaoke machine costed several thousands so he almost panicked, however it miraculously worked like normal after that when using the step down so I guess he unplugged it in time.
If you bought it and got the wrong AC adapter with it the seller should be at fault.
Hello there, i am coceting with the idea of buying famicom from Japan.
I read the first post in this topic and i THINK i understand.(but i am not sure ;D)
So i went to e-bay and found this :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/power-supply-SMPS-Adapter-Super-Famicom-Nintendo-SNES-SFC-/321469322221?pt=FR_Jeux_Vid%C3%A9o_Jeux_de_marchandises&hash=item4ad91093ed
Is is exactly what i want for famicom in europe ?(I am from Slovakia)
Does anybody have any experiences with power supply of this sort?
Thanks.
I can't remember; I got it last summer. I took it over to Radio Shack and they gave me a power converter that does not cause the Famicom AV to get warm at all. It works perfectly, I just wonder HOW long it will work-in other words, did that overheating permanently damage it? I'm hoping that the white smoke was just some of the white plastic casing that heated up; not anything that's critical to the functioning of the actual console.
Quote from: dave4shmups on August 19, 2014, 04:36:11 pm
I can't remember; I got it last summer. I took it over to Radio Shack and they gave me a power converter that does not cause the Famicom AV to get warm at all. It works perfectly, I just wonder HOW long it will work-in other words, did that overheating permanently damage it? I'm hoping that the white smoke was just some of the white plastic casing that heated up; not anything that's critical to the functioning of the actual console.
Hehe, as long as the Famicom Works, nothing was damaged :).
Hmmm, it could reduce the life of that component that got heated up. But hard to say what the long term effects would be.
A good thing is that I think that component probably could be replaced.
Do you know what PSU you used that caused this? If you can write down what is on its label, or take a photo.
It says "Input : AC 100 - 240 V (50/60Hz)" meaning it can be used in the whole world. The output says "Output : 9V DC 1000mA". Voltage is close to the Famicom's and the amperage is enough. I can't see the polarity anywhere (and I can't read Korean) but I guess it's centre negative since the seller states that it works on Famicom. Barrel size of the blue plug matches the Famicom as you can tell by the FAQ.
I've just bought an AV Famicom and terrified of blowing it up! I'm in the UK and have a Universal adaptor, it has this on the label and I've set it to 9V:
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm55/Lorfarius/photo_zpseea66e99.jpg)
Will it be okay?
PRI is the same as input and SEC is same as output. The symbol that looks like a line with three dots under means DC so that's good. What is it that you don't understand about the FAQ? You'll have to check polarity of that adapter too.
Since it doesn't say anything about polarity I suspect it's one of those were you can switch polarity yourself by turning the plug.
It was more a fear of "it looks okay but..." the end of the plug has changeable pins with the +/- option printed on the plastic of the barrel. There's no other switches or buttons to change anything else.
Quote from: Lorfarius on August 31, 2014, 04:18:40 am
It was more a fear of "it looks okay but..." the end of the plug has changeable pins with the +/- option printed on the plastic of the barrel. There's no other switches or buttons to change anything else.
Please, save your self, and be sure..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Famicom-HVC-002-Power-Adapter-AC-DC-Super-Famicom-Japanese-Official-Nintendo-/141387405070?pt=US_Video_Game_Controllers&hash=item20eb58970e
Get this one :)
I'm in the UK so I'd need another plug to convert that to work! I could get a Mega Drive/Genesis one but those are about $20 and I have the one pictured which I was hoping would save me some cash.
If everyone just posted "Just to be sure, is this adapter OK?"-questions all the time the FAQ would be pointless. A few such questions is good as examples for others to read, but I think they are starting to pile up now.
I can say that your adapter is good to make you feel at ease but I probably don't know more about it than you do so it's just false safety, it's better to make sure that it works yourself. The best way is to check it with a multi-meter, you can check that it really outputs 9V and that the polarity is correct. You can google how to do it, it's super easy really.
About polarity, the AV Famicom needs center negative so make sure you (or someone else) don't put the plug the wrong way. And finally, yes that adapter looks fine to me.
Quote from: P on August 31, 2014, 03:19:00 pm
If everyone just posted "Just to be sure, is this adapter OK?"-questions all the time the FAQ would be pointless. A few such questions is good as examples for others to read, but I think they are starting to pile up now.
I like to think that for every "will this adapter work?" post, there are two or three people for whom the FAQ was adequate and didn't end up making a post about it. You know? I think that without this FAQ, there would be
even more posts like that.
And I'm not saying this to knock people who ask questions -- you're better off asking than blowing up a Famicom.
You are probably right about that. Or maybe even worse, without this FAQ more people might blow up their Famicoms.
Quote from: P on August 31, 2014, 01:59:25 am
PRI is the same as input and SEC is same as output. The symbol that looks like a line with three dots under means DC so that's good. What is it that you don't understand about the FAQ? You'll have to check polarity of that adapter too.
Since it doesn't say anything about polarity I suspect it's one of those were you can switch polarity yourself by turning the plug.
The FAQ doesn't mention the AV Famicom just the Fami so not sure if the same applies. The plug I have comes with several different adaptors for the tip and each side has different markings so one is - o) + and the other is - (o+ there doesn't appear to be any other switches or places to set polarity. I think that's done by the way you insert the tip attachment.
I'm being cautious because the system has cost me over $100 which I can't afford to lose on the off chance I've made a mistake.
Hello there, sorry for another "will this work" question, but i want to be sure :)
(http://s28.postimg.org/jqevexia3/IMG_1510.jpg)
Okay, it seems to be center positive. Is there any was change it with conector or something?
Quote from: casino on October 09, 2014, 07:25:59 am
Hello there, sorry for another "will this work" question, but i want to be sure :)
(http://s28.postimg.org/jqevexia3/IMG_1510.jpg)
Okay, it seems to be center positive. Is there any was change it with conector or something?
Sorry, but no....
And it won't work on Twin Famicom, either, because of 9V DC output. The Twin Famicom needs a 7.5 or 7.6 DC output. And the Twin Famicom's amp needs to be at least 1.25A.
You can change the polarity,it's very easy.
I've made a quite a few ac adapters that way.
I got a Super Famicom for Christmas, and I beleive the Super Famicom and Famicom use the same power so I figure this fits this forum.
I got a power adapter that I use for my NES and SNES and it has this stuff on the label:
AC/DC Adaptor
Class 2 Transformmer
Model:MKD-48091000
Input: 120VAC 60 Hz 13W
Output: 9V DC 1000mA
Listed (+)------------(o------------(-)
Bad idea to put it into the Super Famicom? I want to make ultra sure so I don't blow the thing up so that's why I'm asking.
Famicom and super famicom can use the same, 10V DC 850mA center negative, the adapter you got will work fine also,
but nes and snes not, nes is AC input and snes DC, the snes will work but you will destroy it eventually.
Quote from: jinshu on December 25, 2014, 01:14:19 am
the adapter you got will work fine also,
Well. Guess that means the Super Famicom I got is broken then. Black screens on most of the games I've tested and the ones that run for a short while just get stuck on a black screen during a fade out. What a bummer.
It may not be broken, just dirty. Give everything a clean and make sure to get that cartridge slot all shined up. There's always hope!
hi, do you know if the Sega MD1 AC adapter 1602-05 (http://segaretro.org/File:ACAdaptor_1602-05.jpg) is regulated?
If it is not regulated, having a different load it was designed may result in a different output voltage... (and maybe it could harm the console)
Also, do you know if the barrel plug fits directly a Japanese Super Famicom without adapters?
Barrel size is the same for Sega MD1, Famicom and Super Famicom.
if you have one, it should be easy to test if it is regulated with a multimeter:
if you get 10V without any load then adapter is regulated as described here (http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/50424/how-can-i-tell-easily-if-my-power-supply-is-regulated-switched-or-unregulated)(i've used this method to test many AC adapters)
EDIT: reportedly it is unregulated (http://en.retrogamesupply.com/products/power-supply-for-sega-megadrive-genesis-1), so maybe is better to get one of these 3rd party adapters which are regulated instead (http://en.retrogamesupply.com/collections/nintendo/products/power-supply-for-nintendo-super-famicom).
Hi. Maybe this question was asked already but I'm a bit lazy on digging all this discussion for it.
My friend is selling original Famicom in full set (apart from the missing box and papers). It was killed by turning on with the original PAL NES AC. He said that smoke and burnt smell appeared on the console start. Later he tried to play it with the original AC+stepdown converter but the console is not responding. He don't want to repair it, sells it as-is. Before this accident this particular Famicom was working just fine with the stepdown converter box by original RF.
And now my main question: what has actually died inside the console and can I repair it?
Additional question: how much should I charge for that console? It's in mint condition, never opened up, one user (he bought it in Japan personally), controllers worked fine and white shell plastic is pure white (no aged yellowish look, maybe one of the new models). And besides, I live in a zone where this kind of consoles are rare (units rarely appear and usually they are about 250$ per one) and shipping from EU or US will cost too much.
Sorry for my crappy english, thanks for replying beforehand :)
Hi!
So I in all haste without thinking properly connected my PAL AC Adapter for the NES to a japanese AV Famicom and I think I fried it... Is there any way to repair it or is it basically 100% broken? Like can I just switch out some caps or something like that and it magically works again or am I screwed?
You might be able to repair.
I would change the 1000 uf capacitor,the fuse and the 7805.
Thanks alot for the answer!
Could you guide me to the exact components I might need so I don't purchase the wrong ones! :)
I search the 7805 on ebay and it comes up with: +5V 1.5A is this correct?
There are two smaller caps right next to the 1000 uF one, might those need replacement aswell?
So the 7085 I got from the ebay worked perfectly fine together with switching capacitor! Thanks alot for the help everyone!
I'm not sure if I'm understanding ampere correctly. Can too much damage the console or the power supply? Someone mentioned anything above 1.2A being unnecessary.
What do you think about this, is it a bad idea? http://retrogamesupply.com/collections/nintendo/products/power-supply-all-in-one-for-nintendo-famicom-disk-system (http://retrogamesupply.com/collections/nintendo/products/power-supply-all-in-one-for-nintendo-famicom-disk-system)
Has anyone tested the famicom and FDS with the Universal power supplies by Retro-Bit ?
input says ac 110v-245v
output dc 9v 350ma
says works for nes snes gen1 and i have tested works for sms1
350ma seems pretty low.
that was my thoughts also, but wasn't sure
Hi, I have some interest in importing Famicom system to Finland. However, ones I found from eBay don't include power supply.
According to what I have read, Sega Master System PSU should work, so is this PSU correct type:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-MASTER-SYSTEM-1-Power-Supply-9V-AC-Adaptor-Pack-for-Console-/181259269244?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a33e4f47c
I have US to EU plug adapters.
As long as it's a switching psu it should work but those psu's are very cheaply made.
If you have a pal master system or megadrive model 1 psu then that would work great with a famicom.
Would this work in US without stepdown converter?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331598222073?redirect=mobile
100-240V, 50/60Hz, should work anywhere in the world.
supersonicmario0770 this will every where. It takes anything between 100-240V AC
this thread is pretty messy so I'm gonna ask my question here in the end :)
What Power is required for AV Famicom? Does 7.5V work or is it 9V?
The official specs say 10V, 850mA. 9V will be fine, just make sure the plug is centre pin negative.
Yeah, anything between 7.5 to 15 volts is fine. 7 volts is the usual dropout voltage of the 7805, just make sure the output is DC and like said above, Center pin negative.
Quote from: HokusaiXL on October 12, 2015, 08:57:12 am
Yeah, anything between 7.5 to 15 volts is fine.
well, i cannot disagree more. 15V is fine according to the absolute maximum rating for the most of 7805 ICs. So it's actually *fine*.
However, the higher the input voltage the higher the power dissipation occures on 7805 just because 7805 itself is linear voltage regulator. Bad thing is that famicom doesn't have enough room to fit thermal interface for 7805 which will dissipate even few W of energy.
even if famicom itself consumes roughly ~300 mA (it may vary, depending on what ICs cartridge has got) it means that 7805 will produce ~4.5W of heat for 15V input (or 3W for 10V input.) That's way too much for built-in thermal interface. I doubt if it can effectively dissipate 2W ???
So, what will actually happen when you run your famicom from 15V? I'd guess the thermal shutdown of 7805 will occurs :)
After using a newer switching DC 9V PSU instead of an old Sega Megadrive 1 220V PSU, I noticed that my AV Famicom is barely warm. Using the MD1 adapter it would be warm and even the cartridge would be warm.
I planned to check out how many volts the MD1 PSU gave under load but never got around to doing it, but checked another one recently and that gave 14V unloaded... not so good. I have several MD1 PSUs that I used for SNES, SFC, PCE etc but I think I will stop using them now.
My Famicom gets very warm too (mostly over the heat sing, not so much in the cartridge) if using an MD1 adapter, but not my Super Famicom for some reason. Maybe Sufami has a more effective cooling?
The smaller the console the more noticable the heat dissipation will be. In the SFC there is a lot more mass the heat can go into.
Could actually be that the cooling is less effective and it's all trapped inside the console.
If your worried about the fami getting to hot you can always install a 7805 switching regulator which requires no heat sink.
Would anyone mind just linking me to an eBay or Amazon posting of a safe to use, compatible power supply? I've been looking for two days and don't feel safe in assuming any of them would work. I'd greatly appreciate the help. :redcart:
Hello,
I moved to Korea recently. I picked up a famicom disk system. I've yet to plug it in since I do not want to fry it(including the av famicom). What type of voltage convertor should I pick up? Korea uses 220volts.
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Travel-Power-Converter-Charging/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465826631&sr=8-1&keywords=voltage+converter+220+to+110
Thanks so much
Hi guys, I've been surfing the web for an answer to this question for about a year now (on and off with no clear answer). I have a Famicom with about 50 cartridges which is collecting dust, I don't have to say that I HATE THAT! My question is the following: I've read that a genesis model 1 power adapter works with a famicom, but will a mega drive model 1 adapter work as well? I need to know what model I can buy so that I can enjoy my FAMI!
Also, do I need a power converter, or can I use a simple power wall socket converter (such as this http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/191295351181-0-1/s-l1000.jpg) after I have bought my replacement adapter?
Thank you in advance for any replies, I want to end this problem and enjoy my FAMI!
If your in pal land than a model 1 mega drive psu will work just fine on your famicom.
Does the European NES-002E AC adapter work on the Super Famicom or should I use the Mega Drive 1 AC instead?
The nes psu outputs AC so it can fry a super famicom,stick with a mega drive 1 psu as it's DC and will work perfectly fine.
Anyone know what is mean the "18VA" that appear in the original Super Famicom adapters? I don't read Japanese. Is this important if you are going to buy a generic compatible adapter?
I am talking about this --> http://s49.photobucket.com/user/vlame/media/adapters/IMG_20120402_201507.jpg.html
I guess VA is voltampere which is the same thing as watt, the unit for power (power = voltage * current). What's important when buying a generic adapter is that the output (出力) voltage is DC and 10V, that output current is at least 850mA and that the plug is center negative. And also of course that the input (入力) current covers what you have in your wall outlets in your country.
Yes, I knew that the Super Famicom uses DC 10V 850mA and negative polarity, but what mean exactly this piece of information (18VA) respect the console or the adapter? I read that the Super Famicom use 17W and if the W is the same that VA then, why is it 17W and isn't it 18W? :question:
If it indeed is power, then it's the power capacity for the adapter. It can take up to 18W while the Super Famicom only uses up to 17W I guess.
Hi, first time posting here ;D
So...I just came back from a trip to japan and... bought myself a Famicom! Yay! :star:
The only thing is I have not plugged it in yet because I'm a bit scared that it'll blow up :fire: :fire: :fire:...anyone feel like telling me if the AC adapter I got (see the attachment) will work fine in Canada?
If that one is no good,, care to tell me if this one would be better? (I read it was a pretty safe bet but just making sure!) http://r.ebay.com/59K6Ss
Thank you very much!
Canada seems to have 110-120 V so you are fine. Some people like to have a step-down to 100 V, but many other people don't care and plug in Japanese devices like they are.
Both those adapters should work. I don't know which one is safer.
Will an AV Famicom run on 8.5v or not? The OP says no some other posts say yes. I would like to make a multi AC adapter for my AV Famicom, SNES Mini, and Genesis 2 (VA4). Might add a NES as well. I have a Sony PS2 Slim PSU that is 8.5v 5.6a. Should i look for something else?
Something like this..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f__C_wDMmSw
or this..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zg_G0ISLH6Q
(Without the voltage step down box since i plan to start with the "correct" voltage)
If anyone has done this before feel free chime in :)
Thanks.
The lowest voltage the 7805 can handle safely is 7 volts, you'll be fine with 8.5v.
Thanks. That's what i read but when i read the first page here it said minimum 9v. And other people talking about how it can pull 8.5 at max load .. thought id ask. :)
Hi folks. Got a Super Famicom recently, and only have the original PSU so I'm scared to plug it in! I'mm living in Ireland, so power here is same as the UK. I have the following PSU at home from an older console, could someone tell me if its safe to use with the Super Famicom? I've read the thread, but I'm still a little wary!
(https://s22.postimg.org/eezpqk73l/2016_10_26_12_58_38.jpg)
Thanks everyone!
Looks fine to me,it has the right specs but that thing is huge.
If anything a model 1 mega drive will work just fine on it or you could grab a psu from here.
http://www.robwebb1.plus.com/snes/snes_hard.htm
Quote from: Pikkon on October 26, 2016, 06:10:41 am
Looks fine to me,it has the right specs but that thing is huge.
Yeah its pretty big alright, but once it works, I'm happy! Thanks for your help!
Something interesting to note. The Genesis 1 and Famicom adapters output the same voltage from the tip when plugged into 110-120 outlet of 14 volts DC even though their rating is 9 volts. And that's pretty much been my experience with every linear power supply that's rated at 9 volts out. So plugging in your regular famicom adapter into the wall should make little difference even on 110-120.
Quote from: HokusaiXL on October 26, 2016, 10:23:46 pm
Something interesting to note. The Genesis 1 and Famicom adapters output the same voltage from the tip when plugged into 110-120 outlet of 14 volts DC even though their rating is 9 volts. And that's pretty much been my experience with every linear power supply that's rated at 9 volts out. So plugging in your regular famicom adapter into the wall should make little difference even on 110-120.
I design offline power transformers for a living.
This drop normal, the transformer's output voltage (AC) will drop with load. This is called regulation. If it's a switch mode power supply [SMPS] (i.e. a phone charger. it is small and usually has a large input voltage range) the transformer should have a rather constant output voltage with load.
VA + Volt Amps, which *should* equal watts based on the phase of everything. Basically in a "standard" AC transformer, if you go past the VA, it will get hotter and the voltage will drop more. If you are under it, the voltage will be high.
If anyone wants, I can reverse engineer these old transformers -- my only concern is finding the right bobbin because I assume the laminations are metric and the tech is slowly slowly slowly dying.
I just bought a Twin Famicom without a power adapter to see if I can restore it.
I have a PSone power adapter but I don't want to hack up the end. My question is what is the barrel dimensions for the PSone adapter so I can try to find a convertor. (And where is the best place to get one).
I managed to grab a Famicom for 65€, but the owner (who got it from another collector) never turned it on.
However, the AC adapter he gave me isn't compatible with the Famicom.... It outputs 12V and is Center-Pin Positive.
Fortunately I did not plug it yet, but I am unsure whether the previous owner (before the reseller) turned it on with that adapter...
I am planning to get a new working adapter, but I have no idea if the current one made any damages to the console.
Should I consider it fried? If so, is it repairable?
Thanks for your help.
The only way to know is to try. Don't sell the skin till you have caught the bear. If it's fried it may be repairable.
Quote from: Xious on November 18, 2011, 06:54:54 pm
Ampere Notes: The FC will draw upon demand, so you can pretty much go as high as you need. You need to worry about covering the minimum rating here, and I suggest an 800mA minimum if you plan to use games with lots of extra memory or if you plan to use external controllers, etc. I would not try to use the 3D glasses, for example, without the full 850mA. Using less won't damage your hardware, but it may damage your PSU. Others may suggest more or less, but much more will cause the system to overheat, as will be explained below.
Is this a typo? I don't think more amperage from the PSU will cause the console to overheat. The console will draw as much as it needs.
The voltage regulation in the Famicom is still linear, so the more amps you push through it, the more power it has to convert to heat to dissipate back down to 5 volts.
Quote from: HokusaiXL on January 23, 2018, 01:54:28 am
The voltage regulation in the Famicom is still linear, so the more amps you push through it, the more power it has to convert to heat to dissipate back down to 5 volts.
Thank you for the explanation. I didn't even know about linear/switching regulators, now I do :)
I've recently gotten an Super Famicom JR. Would a US Genesis Model 1 AC adapter work with it just fine? It's RGB modded so I don't wanna blow the thing up day one. ;D
That'd absolutely be fine, I use one on mine all the time and it's worked for years.
I just bought a famicom and it has the original power supply the person I bought it from I. eBay said it is fine to use in the USA. I'm not to sure about this. If not what can I use to make sure it is safe to use and I won't have any problems.
It' a linear supply that puts out about 10% of what it's plugged into. So if it says 10 volts on the brick, on us outlets it's going to be providing around 11-12. I've used mine for years without a single issue.
I like this idea,
http://www.retrogamecave.com/shop/4577155957/duo-fd-power-supply-(famicom-diskdrive)/11232505
I purchased one from them years ago for my Sega Genesis with the CD and 32X add on, made 3 wall warts into 1. So it's pretty neat to see the same thing for the Famicom and Disk drive, but $40+ shipped isn't super appealing :/ anyone know of anything similar but cheaper? For now I'll be using my Genesis 10V adapter (model 1602-1) and some batteries for the Disk Drive until I find a cheaper solution or just break down and pay for the linked one.
~John
Post Merge: April 19, 2018, 07:12:39 am
Hmmm,
A2:The specific and original AC Adapter for the Famicom and the Super Famicom has the following specifications:
Input: 100VAC 50-60Hz
Output: 10VDC 850mA
Polarity: Centre Pin Negative
(+)------------(o------------(-)
Barrel Size: Outer Diameter 5.5mm; Inner Diameter 2.1mm
The Famicom Disk System AC-Adapter has the following specifications:
Input: 100VAC 50-60Hz
Output: 9VDC 400mA
Polarity: Centre Pin Negative
(+)------------(o------------(-)
Barrel Size: Outer Diameter 5.5mm; Inner Diameter 2.0mm*
Assuming i can use 10V on the Disk system safely (or 9V on the Famicom safely if I switch to a 9V Genesis 1 adapter), I could just get a barrel splitter and use the 1 power cord on both? pretty much making my own power cord from the previous post. Any one see any potential issues? Looks like the same polarity on both systems, same-ish barrel size (0.1mm off) and a combined amp requirement of 1.25A so the 1.2A of the Gen 1 adapter should just cover it.
thoughts?
I got the idea from here: https://jonthysell.com/2016/03/19/consolidating-the-sega-genesis-sega-cd-and-sega-32x-power-supplies/ and could use a splitter like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192499539906
You'd need enough amps to handle the draw of the famicom, the disk system ram adapter, and the disk system itself when seeking.
hi, I'm new here and i recently bought an av modded famicom, the thing is that it becomes really hot... i use this ac adapter, it's a HORI AH-7 for famicom an super famicom https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/sQ8AAOSwopRYfv~l/s-l300.jpg what can i do to reduce the heat? (the famicom works really well and i don't want to burn it) :question:
What becomes hot? The Famicom or the AC-adapter?
If it's the adapter I suspect it's faulty and you need a new one.
If it's the Famicom something might be wrong with the voltage regulator. Make sure it's screwed to the heat sink properly.
it's the back side of the famicom, the heat sink appears to be perfect and the ac adapter works fine and i have other one that might work AC 120 , 60HZ output DC9V-980mA polarity (-)-----(o-----(+) :help:
Post Merge: August 15, 2018, 06:45:05 pm
does the sega genesis 1 ac adapter works?
Hey, just curious if this one is safe for an AV Famicom. Thanks!
10V DC output and center negative, yes it should be safe for Famicom and AV Famicom. It must be used in a country with 110 V coming from the wall socket.
Thanks P, not gonna risk it so getting a sega model 1. Thanks tho!
I have a famicom which is still untested. Well, I don't think I can use the original adapter that came with it because i am in 220v territory, and i found another adapter. however, the voltage is 12 volts with the amperage of 1500mA. Is this way to high to be used with a famicom? It did fit perfectly... :help:
Higher amps are fine but you need to make sure the psu is outer positive and center negative or you could damage your famicom.
If you want to be safe a mega drive model 1 ac adapter will work just fine.
12v is fine ,but 9V is better to reduce the heat. :fire:
About the amps, everything above 850mA is ok (for example 1.5A, 1A, 2A and so on)
the critical think is that the center pin have to be negative , and of course the power have to be DC!
i thought it had to be ac...
that's what it says on the original one.
Anyways, if the center pin is negative and it's either ac or dc(the correct one), it should be fine to test it to see if it works?
Edit: My bad-It's DC...
Post Merge: July 24, 2019, 07:40:18 pm
Okay, the adapter doesn't tell me whether it's center pole negative NEITHER does it tell me that it's DC. It just says that its output voltage and amperage is 12V and 1500mA, respectively. It does say 'Household Electronics Adapter'
You must be sure of DC output and polarity before you test it or you'll blow it.
It doesn't say 12 V DC at output? Or it might say AC-DC somewhere (meaning it converts AC to DC)? It may also have a DC mark at the output, it looks like this: ⎓
For polarity there usually is a marking that looks something like this:
+ ---- C ---- -
This means the center part is negative and the outer barrel is positive. Center positive are more common though so don't take any chances.
I think 12 V is technically within the tolerance of the voltage regulator, but as people have said in the past it might not be within the tolerance of the Famicom design (it might not be designed to handle the extra heat). I say look for another adapter that you are sure has the correct specs.
get multi-meter and measure the polarity to be sure and safe :D
Nup!
It's got none of those :-[
Most likely your ac adapter is standard with outer negative and center positive.
I already said a safe one to use or you could grab one of these as well.
https://en.retrogamesupply.com/collections/nintendo/products/power-supply-for-nintendo-famicom
Nah, I think I'll juat wait till I'm back in the US in about a month and I'll test it there since I have a 2 in 1 adapter for the fc and the sfc...
I apologize if this question was already asked, but I just got a Famicom AV.
Can I use my regular Fami AC adapter for it? It came with its own but I have a universal one which supports the plugs of where I live (UAE, we use 240v).
Thank you in advance.
Does anyone know what the difference is between these? They have different serial numbers and slightly different informational layouts, but what's the significance of that?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OOyptMzG4_jMxFibfG2taz1V1VB8EHyI/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wTRq_vf5dzPgErbH9XJbwYBfkEzaB3Vh/view?usp=sharing
Did they both officially come with the console?
The only thing that changed with the mold seems to be the postal code of the (factory?) address. 38256 on the first one and 28650 on the second one. Both looks like both adapters are just two versions of the stock HVC-002 AC-adapter to me, since the model number is there and all.
Oh but aren't postal codes in Japan meant to follow a XXX-XXXX (three and then four digits) format? These are XX-XXXXX (two and then five). I also wonder what the timeline is of when they switched molds.
I have no idea but I guess they use different systems at different times and places. I said postal code only because there's a postal mark before it.
Hi everyone,
Didn't every 18 pages and I'm looking for help to understand something strange.
I own several genuine Famicom AC-Adapter (HVC-002).
When I want to measure the voltage directly from the barrel, I get 16v.
Is there an explanation why it's working with these over-voltaged adapters?
It's likely because you are measuring it when it's not under load which will give you a higher result.
Even if you measure it under load you will still not get exactly 10 V either though, and that's because AC-DC-adapters are cheap and not stable enough, which is why there is a need for the 7805 voltage regulator as well to get it down to stable 5 V.
Many thanks for this answer!