Famicom Disk System extra sound channel on NES

Started by keiffer01, February 22, 2008, 08:01:52 am

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133MHz

Quote from: RGB_Gamer on September 12, 2009, 03:44:49 pm
Lol, I gotta see that! back loader, wow, that's pretty awesome. Do you have pics and did you try FDS with that adapter?


Here are some pics:





As I stated before I've built that contraption with the sole purpose of being able to play my FDS in the time it took my original Famicom to arrive. I've seen the same mod before, with the back of the NES cut off to accomodate for the new cartridge slot, but I didn't bother to do that for something I ended up using only for a few days/weeks (I used a junked NES I got for like $2 at the flea market, not my main system). Once I got my Famicom I never used it again. :P

Quote from: RGB_Gamer on September 12, 2009, 03:44:49 pm
I remember seeing an NES clone once that looked like an NES, but had a famicom cart slot on the top (next to the back of the system). I assume it had an L-shaped cart connector. You put an NES cart in the system like a normal NES, and Famicom games on the top.


I had one of those, but it broke and I scrapped it. Later I got another one with the exact same design, sans top Famicom cart slot.



More info and pictures about it on this thread.

Ghaleon

Wanted to thank everyone for the info in this thread -- my friend and I worked on it last weekend and it works perfect. Sucks that I bought an AV Famicom just for CV3 and it doesn't even work right, haha, but now all is well

2A03

Does anyone know if connecting pin 3 to pin 40 on the expansion port will work for the PowerPak as well?

133MHz

No, for the PowerPak you need to connect pin 3 with pin 9.

2A03

Quote from: 133MHz on February 18, 2010, 07:34:48 pm
No, for the PowerPak you need to connect pin 3 with pin 9.

Will just a wire work or do I need to use the resistor as outlined in the PowerPak mod? I ask this because someone is sending me their NES to be modded for external audio, and I was curious if the mod here would work with the PowerPak.

RGB_Gamer

Check out my setup. RGB Modded, shiny black, extra sound channel modded, red LED inside, stereo adjustment knobs, HES Unidapter system with Famicom Disk System. I can play USA NES, PAL NES, Famicom, and Famicom Disk System games without ever having to open up the NES cartridge door. Not pictured is my MGD1 which lets me write my own Famicom Disk System games.

I call it, the "Top Loading Toaster"


133MHz

@2A03: You could use a wire but I presume that the enhanced sound will be too loud and could possibly overpower the NES audio leading to severe distortion. Resistor value isn't very critical, anything from 47k to 100k should work OK (with minute differences in sound volume).

2A03

Now that I've been thinking about getting a PowerPak to replace my FDS, I was wondering if it would be possible at all to get external audio on the top loader. I mean, couldn't you just take the audio output from the cart connector and mix it with the audio on the top loader?

satoshi_matrix

I don't think it's possible on the NES 2 because it lacks the expansion port, but I don't know the PCB of the NES 2 well enough to confirm. You can do it on the AV Famicom because it natively supports expansion audio and the toaster NES because it has the hardware to produce it but it just was never used.

petik1

November 25, 2010, 10:49:55 am #24 Last Edit: November 25, 2010, 04:43:06 pm by petik1
Hate to bump an ancient thread, but i had a question.

@133mhz, what pins did you use on that adapter? And what cap/resistor did you use? I assume this will work on the nintendo made famicom to nes adapters.

EDIT: nevermind, reading sometimes is useful...

SeanOrange

Don't hate that you bumped it; this is absolutely amazing, and the first time I've seen it! :O

I knew this mod was possible, I just had no idea how EASY it was!!
~Sean(Orange)

satoshi_matrix

Easy is a relative term. Doing this is relatively simple for those of us who are handy with hardware, but I would still say an NES modded to run FDS with the expansion sound is something a little beyond most retro gamers.

nintenthe3rd

I hate to bump an old thread, but I am currently in the process of attempting a simular mod to get extra channels to go on the NES.

I have a couple questions: what type of wire do I use (as in what gauge) to bridge the pins 3 and 40? Will I still be able to do the 47k (pins 3 and 9) mod for the powerpak with no consequences?

The reason why I ask this is because I'm going to be getting the japanese version of Rolling Thunder and I'd like to hear the full sound on the NES (along with the Japanese castlevania 3).






tappybot

This stuff is all so neat, but I have zero experience in it.

If I wanted to enter the mod scene from stone 1, what should I do?  Any good tutorials for newbies to get started?

petik1

Quote from: nintenthe3rd on February 21, 2011, 05:42:31 pm
I hate to bump an old thread, but I am currently in the process of attempting a simular mod to get extra channels to go on the NES.

I have a couple questions: what type of wire do I use (as in what gauge) to bridge the pins 3 and 40? Will I still be able to do the 47k (pins 3 and 9) mod for the powerpak with no consequences?

The reason why I ask this is because I'm going to be getting the japanese version of Rolling Thunder and I'd like to hear the full sound on the NES (along with the Japanese castlevania 3).



You should have no problem connecting both to pin 3. 3 is an Audio input, which mixes it with the audio from the NES. Since you can't have a powerpak and an FDS hooked up at the same time, one mod shouldn't affect the other.


Quote from: tappybot on February 22, 2011, 03:49:41 am
This stuff is all so neat, but I have zero experience in it.

If I wanted to enter the mod scene from stone 1, what should I do?  Any good tutorials for newbies to get started?




I'm sure one of the members have written or read a good tutorial for newbs at one time, although I haven't.

One simple task you will probably learn to do is to "tin" your wires. This simply means coating the wire with solder before you actually solder it to wherever. From there, all you have to do is touch the two things you are soldering, and place your soldering iron on the back of the unsoldered piece, which will melt the solder on the other, and join the two metals. I always forget this, and it gets very annoying when solder doesn't do what it's supposed to do.

I'm sure other members have other helpful newbie tips, this is just the most helpful for me.