Technical and Repair Assistance

[vgthing]

I have the same problem. you can fix it by messing with the channel selection switch on the back. I just brush it back and forth without actually changing it. Usually that will help. i don't know why though...

[133MHz]

I'd say that the TV has trouble with locking onto the FC signal.
As The Uninvited Gremlin mentioned before, JP Channel 1 / 2 (US Channel 95 / 96) fall right in the middle of the FM radio band.

JP1/US95 is 91.25 MHz
JP2/US96 is 97.25 MHz

Check for radio stations at those frequencies and also at 91.5 / 97.5 MHz
Probably there's a particularly strong radio station in your area which messes up the signal when they broadcast loud content or something.

Something could be failing inside your FC's RF modulator. Try another TV if possible.

[manuel]

Haha, I knew you'd have the answer.

You need to change your custom title to "FW Tech Guru" or something like that. 

[NintendoKing]

93.5 messes with channel 95 here, really really badly.

I hear radio over the sounds of the game and see static movement matching the songs beat;
I was only able to bypass this issue using a vcr set to channel 95 and the vcr input into the A/V on the tv.

[133MHz]

Using thick coaxial cable (like the CATV company does) and a shielded RCA to F adapter instead of the original FC/NES RF switch helps a lot too.

[ericj]

133MHz -- What about adding a ferrite bead to the coax cable? Would that help?

[133MHz]

Ferrite chokes are usually placed to suppress interference coming from the inside of the system (that's why they get placed at the ends of cables - so they don't act like long antennas), I don't know if they'd have a significant impact on signals coming from the outside.

[Rob64]

Thanks for the advice guys, the static only happens once in a while and the tv has been working in great shape before I got my famicom. So I am pretty convinced that it's the radio stations up here.

[MeatHook]

I recently replaced the elastic band (  ) in my FDS with a brand new, proper drive belt. However, while the disks worked with the elastic band, they no longer load with this new drive belt.

I'm getting Errors 21 and 22.

I'm running the FDS off batteries, which around about 2 months old.

Before I screw around with calibrating the motor, should I try using new batteries? I know that the motor takes a lot of juice. Would it make a difference?

Thanks guys. . . . Also, I'm sure I could find the answer somewhere in the last 46 pages of this thread. But perhaps this will hone your repair-assistance skills.

[133MHz]

You'll most certainly have to fiddle with the motor speed. The proper belt exerts a different tension on the motor and flywheel than the rubber band, varying the effective spindle speed.

[ooXxXoo]

Howdy Fellaws!
I've a few quick questions. The other day while arguing with a friend about the FDS gears and header mechanisms, we both came to the conclusion that the header screw doesn't need to be touched when replacing and installing a new belt (I read somewhere that the screw has to be adjusted) , but instead, the gears have to be properly aligned....Has anyone come across with a MITSUMI Elec. FDS service manual yet?.....And/or where does your FDS or Sharp twin header usually ends after reading side A..?..

I really wonder where did a brand new FDS header exactly ended after reading side A, directly from the factory....

Does any have a FDS system with an authentic stock belt?...In other words, with a virgin drive(untouched)

NOTE: I'm not saying in any way or form that messing with the header screw doesn't work, because this does indeed works, just that it isn't completely the right thing to do, or what Nintedo repair technicians would have done...

[133MHz]

The other day while arguing with a friend about the FDS gears and header mechanisms, we both came to the conclusion that the header screw doesn't need to be touched when replacing and installing a new belt (I read somewhere that the screw has to be adjusted) , but instead, the gears have to be properly aligned

You are indeed right. For belt replacing you don't have to touch the head adjustment screw (in fact never mess with it unless you want a dead FDS!), you only need to align the spindle thing.

Too bad there's not an easy and reliable method for head adjustment, like a diagnostic software that you can use to calibrate the head position (almost every old computer with 5.25 inch floppy drives had some sort of calibration software). I remember reading somewhere about a guy that managed to calibrate his FDS drive head with a digital microcaliper, but that's somewhat out of reach for most of us (but not as far as using an oscilloscope to watch the waveform directly from the drive head and adjusting until you get the greatest amplitude).

Does any have a FDS system with an authentic stock belt?...In other words, with a virgin drive(untouched)

I don't think that's possible. Rubber decays over time even if unused. Unless you kept it in a cryogenic vacuum underground surrounded by thick lead walls, the belt is going to be broken.

[ooXxXoo]

Yeah, I know the belt goes for sure, even if it isn't being used, its nature...But I swear I read somewhere, some one actually buying a brand new FDS, intact.....1 in a 1000,000,000,000 chance?...

[ooXxXoo]

Hey 133Mhz, since your are one of very few experts regarding the Famicom/FDS systems that I've seen, if is not too much to ask and whenever you have the spare time, could you possibly post a pic of any of your FDS games after it has been loaded, to see where does the header of your FDS ends?....

There is an interesting official 80's Nintendo FDS TV commercial in youtube, I'm sure many of you have seen it.. At one point a regular Famicom cartridge transform into a FDS game, the header point seems to be pointing at one of the upper corners (based and assuming that it is side A)...I truly believe that the one sided single games should end there, such as my copy of FDS Mario Bros does....After messing a bit with the gears, most double sided games ended almost at the upper middle, while the larger single sided games end at this particular corner....

The loading time seems also to be much faster than it was before....

[133MHz]

Sorry but I think that I don't quite get what's exactly what you're referring as header. Is it the physical head on the drive? or is it the data header on the disk? (the "NINTENDO-HVC" block).