Technical and Repair Assistance

Started by b3b0palula, September 10, 2006, 01:08:43 am

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ooXxXoo

March 05, 2009, 10:11:56 pm #720 Last Edit: March 06, 2009, 09:54:04 am by ooXxXoo
Quote from: 133MHz on March 05, 2009, 10:00:19 pm
Sorry but I think that I don't quite get what's exactly what you're referring as header. Is it the physical head on the drive? or is it the data header on the disk? (the "NINTENDO-HVC" block).


Yes indeed, the data header on the disk...

UPDATE: The pic is not longer necessary, after taking a look at my FDS system paperwork and box photos, the disk data header does indeed ends at the very same corner as the one that the video shows, confirming my suspicions of where the disk header position should begin/end correctly.....It takes a timing adjusment mixture between the FDS gears and motor (for those that have actually messed with the motor in the past, if not, it should be just fine), to achieve this spot....
For those that have manually messed with the screw and header one way or another, there is simple way to adjusted back to the factory setting position, its a bit tricky but not impossible.

jimhmphry

just picked up a av fami. do both the left and right chanels produce sound?is it the psudo stereo that some modded famicoms produce ?also has anyone  tried a s-vid hook up from a n64 or game cube i use one on my s-famicomand it makes a huge diffrence. ???
oops wrong page sorry

133MHz

No pseudo-stereo from your AV Famicom. Just plain mono sound through both channels.
Also the AV Fami doesn't output S-Video. If you try your S-Video lead with it you'll get a black screen.
And no, there's no easy way to mod a Famicom for S-Video, Component or RGB output. The only real way to do it is by buying an expensive and rare Famicom Titler console, steal its RGB-enabled PPU, install it on a Famicom and build a converter circuit from RGB to whatever you need. Not easy, not cheap :-\.

Drakon

Quote from: 133MHz on March 10, 2009, 08:30:18 pm
No pseudo-stereo from your AV Famicom. Just plain mono sound through both channels.
Also the AV Fami doesn't output S-Video. If you try your S-Video lead with it you'll get a black screen.
And no, there's no easy way to mod a Famicom for S-Video, Component or RGB output. The only real way to do it is by buying an expensive and rare Famicom Titler console, steal its RGB-enabled PPU, install it on a Famicom and build a converter circuit from RGB to whatever you need. Not easy, not cheap :-\.


or take the ppu off of a playchoice 10.  And yes no famicom has any form of stereo seperation.

133MHz

Quote from: Drakon on March 15, 2009, 06:47:19 am
or take the ppu off of a playchoice 10


True, but you'll get screwed up colors:



:-\

BadWolf42

Hello fellow Famicom Fans!

I acquired  a Disk System a while ago, and have tried with no success to get it to run on my toaster NES using a converter from a Gyromite cart. I have encountered several problems with it:

1) The FDS displays, but with heavy graphical glitching.
2) When a disk is inserted, it displays the copyright info, then goes black. (If I'm lucky it'll occasionally display a few distorted sprites)
3) When I do the RAM diagnostic check, under PRAM CRAM it says "6000H".

I hope one of you FDS experts out there can tell me what my problem is!

Attached is a photo of the RAM Diagnostic and the innards of my RAM adapter.

Thank you,
Ryuzaki

133MHz

Could be a bad connection between the RAM adapter and the NES. Try it on a real Famicom, a Famiclone, or another NES and/or converter if possible.

If still no luck, there's bad RAM chip in the adapter. Luckily it's relatively easy to replace.

BadWolf42

All right, thank you!

I tried it on my other NES, and still no luck...
I just purchased a Generation NEX Famiclone on Ebay, it has a 60-pin slot as well as a 72-pin, Hoping to god that it'll work for me.

So, worst-case-scenario, I need a new RAM Adapter? (If so, anyone willing to sell/trade for one?)

133MHz

If you can solder, you can replace the RAM chip yourself.
If not, then you need a new RAM Adapter.

BTW do you have any other Famicom games to test your Gyromite converter?

BadWolf42

Sadly, I have no Famicom carts to test it with.

I'm currently taking an electronics class, so I do have some soldering skills, but I'm worried about completely botching the job. once I test it on the NEX, I'll know my problem, and I'll get back to you.

Thank you,
Ryuzaki

133MHz

Quote from: BadWolf42 on March 15, 2009, 04:36:50 pm
I'm currently taking an electronics class <...>  but I'm worried about completely botching the job.


You can ask your teacher to help you out ;).

turbo D

Does the original famicom have a fuse? If so, where is it? ??? Srry if this has been asked/answered before, search didn't come up with any results. As you can guess, my famicom is not working at the moment.
FC HVC-001 HC4593710 CPU-GPM-02 1989
FDS HVC-022 D1072158 FD7201P 6602 + new belt!
My FF setup!

133MHz

Yes. There is a fuse in the RF modulator board, on the solder side, near the DC plug. It's the same kind of fuse that's used in the SNES/SFC.

wolf9545

Quote from: turbo D on March 16, 2009, 12:27:02 am
Does the original famicom have a fuse? If so, where is it? ??? Srry if this has been asked/answered before, search didn't come up with any results. As you can guess, my famicom is not working at the moment.



If you look at this post, http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=786.msg31310#msg31310 (I had the same problem) you will see a picture of the fuse and what I did to solve my problem.  I now have a working famicom; all I did was use a short wire to jump over the fuse instead of replacing it.  The solder connections may look like they are falling apart on my pictures but I used a sharp knife to make sure that none of the solder was touching other solder and shorting out.

turbo D

Thank you very much 133MHz and wolf9545! I have replaced the fuse with a glass one and my famicom is performing flawlessly!
FC HVC-001 HC4593710 CPU-GPM-02 1989
FDS HVC-022 D1072158 FD7201P 6602 + new belt!
My FF setup!